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California
> Sierra Eastside
> Bishop Area
> Owens River Gorge
> Central Gorge
> Upper Crust
Feudal Beerlords
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 48
votes
Routes in Upper Crust
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Butterknife T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Darshan (aka Ripoff) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Expressway S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Feudal Beerlords T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fork it Over S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Nirvana S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Offramp S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Road kill S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Uncertainty Principle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Todd Vogel, Fred Lifton & Chris Iversen, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 3,598 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | AWinters on Feb 19, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
The great finger and handcrack on and just left of the arete.
Start off with a nice ergonomic and rounded finger crack to multiple rests on good face holds. Continue up the gradually widening crack with great jams, into wide hands with good features in the back. After the crack climb past 3 bolts on the arete to the anchor.
The crux is perhaps the first 20 feet, then it mellows out...
Easily top-roped from the 'Nirvana' anchors. It would be a shame to climb 'Nirvana' and not try it.
Start off with a nice ergonomic and rounded finger crack to multiple rests on good face holds. Continue up the gradually widening crack with great jams, into wide hands with good features in the back. After the crack climb past 3 bolts on the arete to the anchor.
The crux is perhaps the first 20 feet, then it mellows out...
Easily top-roped from the 'Nirvana' anchors. It would be a shame to climb 'Nirvana' and not try it.
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