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Neil R
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Mar 29, 2012
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Denver, CO
· Joined Jun 2009
· Points: 200
Are there any offwidths at Devil's Lake that you can recommend? I'll be there for 3 days of climbing in early April and would love to tackle some. Also any other route recommendations that you deem 'Must-Do' would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Andy Hansen
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Mar 29, 2012
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Longmont, CO
· Joined Sep 2009
· Points: 3,130
The Vulva Hot Beef Injection (not in the guidebook or on MP, to the left of Wild West Homo) Via Apia Whitney's Chimney (Fishing Crag)
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Andy Hansen
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Mar 29, 2012
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Longmont, CO
· Joined Sep 2009
· Points: 3,130
Must Do routes at DL include the following: Thoroughfare, Alpha Centauri, Upper Diagonal, Flake Route, Catenary Crack, Jack The Ripper, Pine Tree Step Across, Watermarks Direct, Birch Tree Crack, Son of Great Chimney, Wild West Homo, Coup d'Etat, Lost Face Overhangs I & II, Dancing Madly Backwards, Gargantua and definitely not Curving Crack despite what all the fools on here will tell you.
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Neil R
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Mar 29, 2012
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Denver, CO
· Joined Jun 2009
· Points: 200
Great! Thanks Andy. I'll be sure to hit up as many of those as possible.
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Burton Lindquist
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Mar 29, 2012
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Madison, WI
· Joined Jan 2002
· Points: 4,215
Impossible Crack up at Devil's Chair is OK offwith. Short but stout for the grade. The V at Vulture lookout is a great offwith lead. It will work ya.
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NickinCO
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Mar 29, 2012
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colorado
· Joined Sep 2010
· Points: 155
while you're in the area (upper D) you might as well do birchtree crack, sometimes crack, and congratulations too. (I thought curving crack was good also LOL)
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Kevin Brooks Henry
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Mar 29, 2012
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Minneapolis, MN
· Joined Jan 2010
· Points: 685
Queens Throne isn't an OW, but I highly recommend it. It's really easy but an incredibly fun route.
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Tradiban
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Mar 31, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2004
· Points: 11,610
Andy Hansen wrote:Must Do routes at DL include the following: Thoroughfare, Alpha Centauri, Upper Diagonal, Flake Route, Catenary Crack, Jack The Ripper, Pine Tree Step Across, Watermarks Direct, Birch Tree Crack, Son of Great Chimney, Wild West Homo, Coup d'Etat, Lost Face Overhangs I & II, Dancing Madly Backwards, Gargantua and definitely not Curving Crack despite what all the fools on here will tell you. I mostly agree...but Catenary Crack is god awful, don't bother. Best route on that crag is Jack the Crooked Cop. Curving Crack is great, in fact most ALL of Old Sandstone is classic. OP doesn't mention how hard he climbs but the star ratings on MP for DL are pretty accurate so follow those. As for off-width, there's no true OW anywhere, except maybe Whitney's Chimney which isn't even at DL. The top of Pidgieon Roof is also OW but a pretty short section.
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fat cow
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Mar 31, 2012
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St. Paul, MN
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 10
sometimes and congrats are super duper
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NickinCO
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Mar 31, 2012
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colorado
· Joined Sep 2010
· Points: 155
Also in the area of Upper D is Brinton's Crack, probably the most classic 5.6 in the park. I would also recommend dropping a few grades from what you're comfortable at if you've never climbed there.
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hwdamf keller
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Mar 31, 2012
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West Bend WI
· Joined Aug 2008
· Points: 185
I would say Whitney's is a SUPER FUN squeeze chimney not off-width. Stuck Knee, Dead Tree, Birch Tree, Impossible Crack, The Vulva, amazing short roof off width just around the corner(climbers right)from Lost Face. Just remember any offwidth at the lake will be short and most can be avoided by face climbing.
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Neil R
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Apr 2, 2012
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Denver, CO
· Joined Jun 2009
· Points: 200
Hey thanks everyone for the ever increasing list! I'll try to get on as much as I can and report back my findings :) Cheers!
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Andy Hansen
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Apr 2, 2012
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Longmont, CO
· Joined Sep 2009
· Points: 3,130
And remember... no matter what anyone tells you... Curving Crack is not that good.
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Tradiban
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Apr 2, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2004
· Points: 11,610
highnoon is right, Whitney's is not off-width, chimney. Andy is full of shit, Curving Crack is classic. Andy, care to explain why you don't like it?
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Andy Hansen
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Apr 10, 2012
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Longmont, CO
· Joined Sep 2009
· Points: 3,130
I may be full of shit, true. But every time I get on Curving Crack it is so dirty, grungy and insecure. I think it's just a totally subjective view on the route and I guess I say it's awful based solely on my experiences on it. I would definitely recommend that everybody at least TRY the route to see for themselves. It is a well protected 5.8 at DL which can be difficult to find if you're breaking into the grade. I'd like to get on it late in the season when there have been many ascents of the route to clean it up. Also, I've lost a cam in it so I have pent up feelings of hatred towards the cam swallowing crack.
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Ryan Strong
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Apr 12, 2012
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Golden, CO
· Joined Mar 2010
· Points: 1,710
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Ryan Strong
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Apr 19, 2012
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Golden, CO
· Joined Mar 2010
· Points: 1,710
"The Layback" at the Guillotine Area is probably the cleanest longest off width i have come across at the lake thus far.
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