need help picking a leaders pack
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Hi. I am sitting on the fence trying to decide on a leaders pack. |
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geirw wrote:howe does it leadclimb?Mine sucks at placing gear. But seriously, I like BD Bullet packs. |
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I've never used ccw gear, but I love my cilo gear 20l work sack- hands down, best lead pack I've had. I use it for multi-pitch and alpine climbing, and it works well. |
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I have to go with the Blue Ice Warthog Pack if you need more than a bd bullet |
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The Cilo 20L worksack would be quite small for a full day pack. It's great for water/food/layers while on lead, but if you're going to be using it as a primary pack you're either going to be wearing lots on your harness or carrying extremely little gear. I do really like it for a lead pack on long multipitch though. |
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Sorry to add another pack to the list. The REI Flash 18 is the one I've been using for the past two years and love it. 18L capacity while weighing in at only 11 ounces. |
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daniel c wrote:Sorry to add another pack to the list. The REI Flash 18 is the one I've been using for the past two years and love it. 18L capacity while weighing in at only 11 ounces. rei.com/product/827110/rei-…And it's only $29, which is the best deal in town. I have a Flash 18 as well. It's a great summer pack but on the verge of being too small for winter. I do the approaches wearing my harness with my full rack on the harness and rope carried over my shoulders. I did an 8 pitch ice climb 2 weeks ago and carried: 2 L of water, a light puffy (Arc Atom LT), 2 sandwiches, a headlamp, a couple clif bars, a spare pair of socks, and a spare pair of warm gloves - but not much more than that. I would have preferred to have room for my big belay jacket, but i couldn't make it all fit, so I just hoped it would stay warm and moved quickly all day. I also have a 10"x 16" piece of cut up foam pad that I slide in to give the pack a bit of shape, cushion my back, and use as a seat pad while eating lunch or on long belays. |
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i picked up one of these for 15$ ... 9 oz ... 17L ... 210D... enough to carry a puffy, emergency gear, water, food ... only thing it doesnt have is a waiststrap but then i just use a piece of webbing which doubles as bail material if needed |
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I use the Cierzo 18 by Arcteryx (last years model without the zipper top). The pack is perfect for my use. I generally do 5 or less pitches of ice and 10 or less pitches of rock. I like that it packs away small when I'm doing approaches. The only downside is it is not rigid at all and it takes some creative packing to get it to sit right while leading. The price of 60$ is pretty good for that size and Arcteryx. |
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i really like my petzl bug, big enough, the waist belt tucks away when im not using it, pretty light weight, straps are designed like a petzl harness with the frame technology. 18L, sits high enough to reach a chalk bag, plus it has a sweet guide book pocket. i've worn it leading a bunch of stuff at Seneca and Nelson and hardly noticed it. only time i had a problem with it was on Conns West, trying to work my way up the chimney pitch it kinda sucked. ended up leaving it hanging on a piece of gear for my second to deal with(luckily she was all of 95 lbs and it actually made it easier for her to get up the chimney...oh yeah, this will be my 3rd season with it, and 2nd guiding with it. |
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I asked this a while ago. Check out these threads. |
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+1 for the Flash 18. It is cheap, light, packable. It packs down small enough to fit in an approach pack, will hold a puffy, water, sandwiches, an ice axe, and it has daisy-chain attach points for whatever other stuff you may want to carry. |
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I spent the last week using, looking at, taking pictures of and quizzing the users of several climbing packs. They included CCW, the BI Warthog, a Cilo and a Golite. Packs that had been used hard. |
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I like my Metolius Portacord. It's 18L and expands to 24. Very very durable. I wish it would pack up just a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs 1.5 Lbs. But other than that I like it. I also have a flash 18 that comes in handy sometimes since its light and packs up so small. The Marmot Kompressor is pretty sexy and so is that Cilogear pack mentioned above. |
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+2 for the Flash 18. Awesome little pack! I put a sheet of foam in the hydration pocket on mine, which makes it carry *really* comfortably, and put a bungee on the outside. Better than many more expensive packs I've used. |
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I've got a few packs I use as "leader's packs" - my favorite is the MEC genie - light, tough, simple and just does what it's supposed to do. And it's cheap. mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Packs/Da… |
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Check out the Gregory Fury 16. I just started using in Eldo and love it. It has great features and is super light (18oz, which is a lot lighter than most CCW, etc leader packs). Some great features include: Gu Pockets on the shoulder straps, that can either hold Gu or a topo. There are expandable external packets, that stay snug when climbing but expand for hauling gear to the approach. There is a very simple ice axe attachment. The waist belt is stretchy, so it expands with your deep breaths and keeps the load snug when you are thrashing about. The shoulder straps are comfy, aerated and super lightweight. It has a hydration pocket and nice little pockets for your cell phone and keys. I haven't had to haul it yet, but it is the pack I will use on Alpine Rock routes, as it seems bomber for the occasional hauling situation. |
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For the OP: It sounds like you are looking for 2 different packs. 1, you are inquiring about a 20L. The Cilo Hauly 20 is damn near indestructible. As a rock/multi-pitch leaders pack, that would be a better choice than the work sack. |
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I love my Cilo 30L W/NW Dyneema pack. I have to admit though i have had more than one problem with it in the short it has been in use "one ice season/40days". Mind you everything that went wrong have all been easy fixes. But for a $500 pack kinda crazy you cant run it over with a Mack truck 100 times! |
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"SO you ask what is so great about a $500 pack that falls apart then? The ride and the W/NW Dyneema material. Despite one of the lower ice axe buckles coming clear off, one of the buckles on the lid snapping in half when i was unlatching it, the buckles that hold the lid on coming undone along with various other buckles just coming undone for no apparent reason and loosing them in the snow i will still buy another Cilo Gear pack." |
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Dane wrote:... I'll eventually do a full review on Cold Thistle. The best made pack by far? Simple, it is CCW. ...Your blog and posts on ST was how I initially discovered CCW. Thanks I love my Chernobyl! When are you going to post up your review? |