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Penitente Canyon Anchor Replacement & Trail Repair Weekend Public Event
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Hey, let's put a new bolt in No Regret, like a bolt between 2nd and 3rd. I would get on this route if it weren't for that groundfall potential. I also thought there was a bolt missing last week on the furthest right route on the Hueco Wall (unsure of the real name), and the top of Captain America just looked like a mess. I look forward to seeing you soon, and I will update this if I see any other routes in need before now and then. ALSO, I am ALL for painting over those ugly putty holes on The Bullet. What a shame they are even there. |
Glenn Schuler wrote:Are my home made red angle iron hangers still on my route Bucket Slave? If so, those would be contenders for replacement. Not sure if I can make it down that weekend but I will definitely try. I'll try and talk that old Kevin M. guy into coming with also. Could bring my drill & help out with some work.Yes the angles are still there. |
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Mike that list looks great! I went out last week to look around. Here are a few additions. |
BGreen wrote:Mike that list looks great! I went out last week to look around. Here are a few additions. TWIST OF FATE-needs 4 hangers to replace angle iron QUE PASA-currently has no anchor LAURA-currently has a single bolt anchor BUCKET SLAVE-needs 4 hangers to replace angle iron IRON CROSS-needs 2 hangers to replace angle iron DINOSAUR-possible to add a bolt??rock quality may be a factor JABBA-Currently has a single bolt anchor NO SWEAT NO VAPOR-needs 5 hangers to replace angle iron plus anchors VAPOR TRAILS-currently has a single bolt anchor UNKNOWN 10d-2nd bolt is loose VICIOUS and PANDORAS BOSCH--looks like these share the first bolt and possibly anchors(currently 1 bolt) There is also work to be done in Rock Garden and Witches. Depending on the turnout, it would be great to get some of that accomplished as well. Looking forward to this!Thanks. Wonderful additions to the List. Bob has started an account with Fixe. Also, several of his sponsors/contacts have produced gear/swag as prizes. I've tried to get the Anchor Replacemt initiative involved but they don't answer our emails. We have donations for beer from two local breweries, perhaps we can get a pizza place to toss in some pies. The BLM is quite involved and we should have a few dozen folks and a lot of organized projects. We'll have several drills and this might be a good place to share information on safe and appropriate bolt and anchor re/placement techniques. And probably alot of differing opinions. The camping is excellent. We'll likely dump a pile a wood and surround a pit with chairs and listen to each other rant, blame, and talk about how impressed we were with this or that. It should be a circle with a few rarely seen old guns, and a few new. The hearth of the web pulls us in now, but the stars and the flash of fireight on grinning faces has not lost its draw. Please come. Penitente is one of the 'Thin Places" where you feel that the space between heaven and earth narrows and they do touch. And if you have never been, it is worth it just to gaze at "Bullet the Blue Sky" and ponder what a truly brief moment we get to share in this glorious place called earth. Please help to leave a part of it even better than when we found it. |
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Can't make it, but is there a way to donate towards the hardware expenses? |
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Mike if you haven't all ready, you should register this as an access fund adopt a crag. |
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Mike, et al - |
Dan G0D5H411 wrote:Can't make it, but is there a way to donate towards the hardware expenses?So sorry you can't make It, but we certainly do appreciate any contributions. I know I have climbed alot of places and I used to wonder how I could give back to the community that made it possible. Just like you, we just want to "pay it forward" to make it safer and a better experience for future climbers. We spoke to Kevin Daniels today at FIXE and he will take donations directly to this account. Just call and ask for Kevin or ask to Donate to the Penitente Canyon Bolt Replacement fund. Kevin Daniels: (760) 873-7505 Email: sales@fixehardware.com Thanks again Dan, Mike |
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I would suggest that there is going to be a deadline roughly 2 weeks before the weekend to allow for the Fixe package to be assembled and delivered, something to consider as this is coming up fast. Other items that will be needed: 3/8" and 1/2" SDS bits 3/8" and 1/2" carbide bits for routing out chopped bolts flat pitons with a 1/2" groove ground out of the blade (to wedge spinners out) Steel carabiners, hammers w/ swedged cables.... Fixing routes is a lot of work if you aim to keep 'like for like' and using existing holes as a parameter |
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I'd almost like to see an honor roll of sorts, listing donates and participants. Because if you climb at Penetente and aren't on either list, you basically suck. But I mean that in a nice way. |
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This should be a great event. I'm breaking out the prybars, two hammers and the funkness lines. Out ye come bad bolts. |
Monty wrote:Mike if you haven't all ready, you should register this as an access fund adopt a cragThanks Monty. I did and they were great. I wasn't aware of this, and we appreciate your support. Here is their response so others know Hey Michael Just wanted to send out a quick thank you for registering your event at Penitente Canyon! We truly appreciate the hard work that volunteers like yourself put into these events and your local climbing areas. These efforts ensure the long term stewardship and accessibility of these climbing resources. I just started at the Access Fund as their Stewardship Manager and I’m looking forward to working with all the AaC organizers once I get my feet wet, so to speak. I’ll be sure to put this event up on our website and do all I can to help with some recruitment. Feel free to contact me anytime if you need anything at all! I’m here to help in any capacity. Depending on my schedule, I very well might come down for this one! J Ty Tyler Stewardship Manager | The Access Fund 303-545-6772x105 accessfund.org/site/c.tmL5K… Right now, roughly 1 in 5 climbing areas in the U.S. are threatened by access issues. Be a part of the solution with myAccessFund. |
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Cheers to all of the enthusiasm! To sweeten the deal... we have confirmation of acustic bluegrass at the campground Saturday evening...many thanks to AaronD and the band from Salida! |
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Nice!! |
J Achey wrote:Mike, et al - Use this address for the ARI: kriley@aimmedia.com. I gave Kevin at Climbing Mag the heads-up that you are trying to contact them and were having trouble. Good luck with the day - I will try to make it out if I possibly can.Thanks, Kevin emailed me today. They had some staff changes and had a delay on answers. I put in a list and hopefully the ARI can support this upgrade. Thanks for the direction. Cheers, Mike |
BGreen wrote:Cheers to all of the enthusiasm! To sweeten the deal... we have confirmation of acustic bluegrass at the campground Saturday evening...many thanks to AaronD and the band from Salida!Pickin' and Grinin' and Crankin' and Yankin' Me thinks we got us a ho-down on our hands. Yee-haw. I was in Nashville for years, nothing like campfire bluegrass under the stars. john strand wrote:Nice!! Maybe I'll talk to the folks at the Moffat art gallery and get some coffee for the AM ( also musicians)And the art scene and java, too. We're gonna light up the San Luis Valley. As far as numbers go, between this thread and Bob's contacts I think we have 20 definites and as many maybes so far. Did I mention the camping is no fee for the weekend if you are volunteering thanks to the BLM. We would like to see the place fill. I asked for 40 anchor sets and 200 bolts. Probably have a half dozen drills if everyone shows, maybe more. If some one has a generator to charge the batteries, might help for Sundays effort. |
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I got a nice portable honda that i'll bring for sure |
john strand wrote:I got a nice portable honda that i'll bring for sureGreat, please bring it. We certainly could use it to charge batteries for the drills and maybe we can plug in and watch the OutsideTV Short on "Bob D and Penitente" that might be heading to Banff this year. I got a preview and it is a prize contender. Anyone happen to have a digital projector and screen? We can screen it out the side of the Sportsmobile if not... |
Mike Howard wrote: Great, please bring it. We certainly could use it to charge batteries for the drills and maybe we can plug in and watch the OutsideTV Short on "Bob D and Penitente" that might be heading to Banff this year. I got a preview and it is a prize contender. Anyone happen to have a digital projector and screen? We can screen it out the side of the Sportsmobile if not...Me and a couple buddies are planning on joining the fun. I've got a sweet projector I can bring, but no screen to use! |
S.Stelli wrote: I've got a sweet projector I can bring, but no screen to use!...we can probably just spray it on one of the walls in the canyon, whipping post would be good...or the side of my van (white), a white sheet, or we'll find a screen. I'll confirm we can get a showing, sometimes the marketing thing is a problem, but I'll let you know for sure. Sounds like Bob's Restauraunt might help us cater Sat. night, perhaps a nominal donation to free. Doc Martin's in Taos does up some good, healthy grub. We'll see how this develops and I'll keep you informed. Bob was at Penitente this weekend checking things out. Cheers, Mike |
