Such a Savage
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 3.7 from 41 votes
Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Spencer Lennard and Craig Fry, November 1977 |
Page Views: | 6,217 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2001 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Yet another of the classic face routes on the Astro Domes, this one is memorable for a stiff runout to the first bolt as well as the steep, well-protected face climbing higher.
P1) Climb about 20 feet of insecure 5.10 friction above the talus to a bolt, run it out again to a second bolt (this feels much easier) and continue to a ledge above which the wall steepens to vertical. Four more bolts along a bolt ladder (some clips are awkward) take you to a bolted belay.
P2) Leave the belay and climb featured vertical face with interesting moves past four bolts to the top and another bolted anchor.
- Descend by walking off around the back or rapping down any of several routes (Breakfast Of Champions or Shooting Star).
Location
Starts 70 feet right of Solid Gold and 15 feet left of Breakfast of Champions (obvious flake/crack system) at a smooth apron of rock.
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