Mastercam 0 - Broken Cam Stop
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Wow, being a fan of master cams this is devistating news. But, just to let it be known. That cam looks alittle more than never been hung/taken a fall.... just sayin... |
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Trust me when I say that the cam has NEVER taken a fall, and if I've ever hung on it, I was too scared at the time to remember. Just sayin'. ;-) |
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Yeah, bummer indeed. Let us know how your efforts to get it replaced by Metolius turn out! |
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send the cams back. the guys at metolius are super nice! |
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I had the same issue with the blue MC, though I did fall on it in a weird placement. Metolius was great about replacing it. I've gone back to using TCU's for the little stuff though, as I never had an issue with them. |
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Sent in the broken cam the end of last week. Imagine my surprise when I checked the mail yesterday and received a shiny, new #0 Mastercam from Metolius! I'm very impressed with the quick turnaround. |
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Dave Holliday wrote:The same thing just happened to me today. My first piece on the route was the purple mastercam (second smallest size, I think) and as I was being lowered it came rocketing out of its placement. One of the cam stops had sheared off.And you never put your weight on it? It came out due only to the light force imparted by the rope as it ran - probably at a sharp angle if your belayer was out from the wall - through it as you were being lowered? Yikes. But then one could argue that anytime the cam stops are loaded, the placement is already worthless/failed. |
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At least you should have no problem getting it replaced. When I spoke to Metolius they seemed very aware of this issue with the two smaller Mastercams, 00 and 0. Replacement should be quick and easy. |
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POOFAY ... cam stops blown and inverted |
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This post got me thinking, and this is no way making any accusations against people who posted on here. |
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depends how high up you are and how straight the rope runs ... the TCU was around 30-40feet off the deck with a straight rope |
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Ben Beard wrote:This post got me thinking, and this is no way making any accusations against people who posted on here. On these small cams, no matter which brand, getting 5-10 feet above that tiny cam could generate some high forces in a fall (correct me if I am wrong).The force is no higher than if you got 5 to 10 feet above a #2 Camalot. The problem is, the small cams are rated to 4-5kN and the bigger ones around 12kN. Ben Beard wrote:Are the cam manufacturers too generous in giving out free replacements for every small cam that breaks?No. I did end up contacting Metolius and they offered to sell me a new new one at a discounted price. Their thinking is that the cam is not designed for free climbing, which is what I was doing. Not generous, but not necessarily wrong either. Ben Beard wrote:Are climbers too cheap to just get a new piece when their tiny cams get tweaked?Yes. |
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Wow - I was surprised to see this post. I just had the exact same issue with my purple # o Metolius Master cam last week. I called Metolius about it and they basically said it was toast and there was nothing they could do "one for the trophy wall" . This is after consulting two mountain shops for advise about it and they both thought I should call. None of my other cams seem to have this problem as of yet. Some sort of design flaw? Or just bad luck? Anyway, I bought a new one to replace it - Hopefully it will be more robust. |
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Alan Ream wrote:Wow - I was surprised to see this post. I just had the exact same issue with my purple # o Metolius Master cam last week. I called Metolius about it and they basically said it was toast and there was nothing they could do "one for the trophy wall" . This is after consulting two mountain shops for advise about it and they both thought I should call. None of my other cams seem to have this problem as of yet. Some sort of design flaw? Or just bad luck? Anyway, I bought a new one to replace it - Hopefully it will be more robust.What on earth makes you think the new one will be "more robust?" |
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They have redesigned the lobes - they are now different (smooth lobes - no ridges and the cam stops seem thicker. etc) So I am hopeful - Perhaps there was just a bad batch or something. My other ones have not had this issue - even the smaller grey one seems fine. Time will tell. Purple # 0 Metolius cam with broken cam stop - next to a new one. |
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Alan Ream wrote:Wow - I was surprised to see this post. I just had the exact same issue with my purple # o Metolius Master cam last week. I called Metolius about it and they basically said it was toast and there was nothing they could do "one for the trophy wall" . This is after consulting two mountain shops for advise about it and they both thought I should call. None of my other cams seem to have this problem as of yet. Some sort of design flaw? Or just bad luck? Anyway, I bought a new one to replace it - Hopefully it will be more robust.alan ... did metolius do anything for you ... such as sell a unit at a discounted rate or cover it? thanks |
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Nope - nothing - That would have been great. I would have even paid something to have new lobes put on - I am guessing I just caught someone having a bad day - perhaps one too many conversations about broken cam stops. Oh well - for the most part I really like Metolius and believe in their stuff. I use quite a lot of it. |
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hmmmm ... im crossing those purple metolius of my list ... personally id rather buy from companies that do something for the customer |
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Ben Beard wrote: Are climbers too cheap to just get a new piece when their tiny cams get tweaked?Yes. Even when they are using it for protecting free climbs. Despite Metolius only recommending it for body weight placements on aid climbs. Sure, they "can" catch a fall and are probably better than nothing but it should come as a surprise to absolutely no one, that these small cams can get mangled in a fall. Maybe it's time to think about investing in a few ball nutz fella's? You get 2 more KN and better range for $20 less! |
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bearbreeder wrote:POOFAY ... cam stops blown and inverted fell 5 feet above it at the lower crux ... gear looked ok when placed, not to say it didnt shift, id fallen on it at the same placement before ... gonna return it to MECYou got lucky before, there is a reason Metolius doesn't rate that cam at 12KN. You were using the gear outside of its intended purpose and now you expect someone else to shoulder the responsibility. The cam didn't just break, YOU broke it. It makes me wonder when you complain about Arcteryx how much you play in that equation. Or rather, if you're misusing that gear too and expecting them to be responsible. |