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Cape Ann climbing renaissance

Tim McGivern · · Medford, ma · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 12,579

Everybody is entitled to their own opinion concerning lichen, bolts, traffic, slings, anchors, etc. I think this thread can be put to better use than soap boxing our opinions.

The absolute bottom line is that the land owners, stewards, and all stake holders (old kermudgens, bird watchers, hikers, etc.) need to be made aware of what climbers intentions are, otherwise we, as climbers, ruffle feathers and get kicked out.

My personal soap box? I'd rather have a sick line than lichen, 40' slings on a route in Gloucester is not far from the normal, so...not so big a deal. When routes get UBER popular and trees begin to degrade, the conversation may begin about bolted anchors. This is pretty typical.

Many of the little climbing areas in Gloucester are on conservation land and people have been climbing at these places for decades. Lets put the drills and hammers away and set up some sort of coalition if that's what you want to do.

Another piece of advice: Contact Richard Doucette with the Access Fund. He has Gloucester in his area. He may have some additional advice.

DFrench · · Cape Ann · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 465

The thing about DU is that it's not in an area that other user groups frequent.

Its proximity to the back of the vet hospital, being away from any hiking loops and lacking any established trails, make it seldom visited by anyone other than climbers, and even they are few and far between.

Furthermore, the recent change in lichen-covering is not even visible through the sparse forest of winter, since you can't even see the cliff face through the trees.

I'm not advocating for going bolt-happy or for even replacing the chopped bolts until more discussion can be had. But I do not feel that it's appropriate for this issue to be brought to the attention of general hikers and bird-watchers. Yes, contact the land-owner, but don't make this some kind of public debacle.

Chris McNeil · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 2,935

First off I want to thank everyone for being so rad about the revival going on out here! Your input and/or gratitude is worth its weight in chalk.

Second off a quick note on the trail markers: they were only placed on the new/reclaimed trails that were and are still somewhat bushwacky to facilitate any eager beavers who wanted to get out ealry on when we first embarked on this endeavor. I opt'd for the tape instead of say spray paint due to its removable nature. After talking to chippa yesterday I will admit a more natural color would have been better... But point taken that people don't seem to think they are necessary.

On TR anchors v. Slings(2012): It is true that bolting here has been a long running issue, but general opinion seems to be that this is a great local area that has been for far too long been largely left sitting under utilized, also that the TR anchors are helping to bring these crags into their proper place in Cape Anns climbing scene. And while building natural anchors is something we should all know how to do... this is west gloucester not the high peaks region of the dacks. The trees here have had a hard enough time coming back from the massive deforestation of the past without climbers wanting the give them chaffing issues with slings. And while the use of long slings have been the norm, that is partly the reason many of these crags have been left alone. Also Rock climbing is a FAR more popular sport nowadays then it was back in the 80's so the impact of slings on trees is going to be more notable in such a popular area. So long post short... Ive been seeing alot of people heading out to crags other than main wall which is awesome! I would simply ask anyone heading out if you see said 'crusty old trady' voice yours and the general opinion that hes being a rather uncool. He should be easy to spot, barefoot, soloing some 5.11+, with a crowbar hanging out his back pocket.

Finally, everyone I have spoken with, either through MP or at the crags seem to all agree that some sort of organizing of us eastern mass climbers would be a great way to deal with such issues as 'TR wars' (I can't really believe that is being said), access issues, orgainizing clean ups, getting local history straight, etc... I had contacted the board of the WMCC for some starting tips but have been a little busy lately to get this ball-a-rollin'

Lastly as with any developing there will always be somethings that people do and don't agree on... Chip, Natti, Baker, and I have been totally upfront with with the work we are doing and I will simply ask that anyone whom has comment or concern mention so in honest and friendly terms and leave any drama at home. We are absolutely trying to be a minimalistic while still allowing for easy use and access. We discuss in length, the placement, orientation, and absolute need for every bolt. I absolutely perfer gear over bolts 200% but I also perfer my ankles solid and not broken.

Final lastly: STAY OUT OF THE VETS LOT and/or the THE STORAGE UNITS... Pertty Please.

Chris McNeil · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 2,935

Also yes we are not planning on drilling anymore holes or place anymore bolts until this issue is resolved. A) it pains me to be asked at main wall if the old drill holes are on for laughing gull or morning glory. B) although Matty has been generous enough with the first sets of TRs at DU. I have pledged to purchase the next round but only once I am confident the issue is resolved. Being a fisherman I can't justify a fish or clams life being taken to replace another bolt which will only be busted.

mnatti · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 305

I would like to get the ball rolling a bit faster on this coalition idea. Perhaps a sit down with those interested is a good plan? It would be great to start putting some ideas, concerns etc on to paper and start prioritizing what direction we all want to be heading in.
I suggest that those who are interested in stepping out from behind the keyboard and helping out on this project all meet up. As that this is a Cape Ann issue, we (hopefully) need a big table to deal with this..... and I like beer, I think the Cape Ann Brew Pub would be a great spot to sit down and hash out a list of goals. As far as the "old schoolers" go, I know where the "hive" is. I will do my best to get as many of them involved in this process as well.

Sunday. April 1 (no joke). 7pm. Cape Ann Brew Pub, Gloucester MA.
Let's do this!

HBTHREE · · ma · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 30

not sure if i'm that "old crusty trady" your refering to, but i didn't chop your bolts. i enjoy a boulder circuit threw "DU" and red rocks, loved running up pink floyd wall, which now has 3 bolts on a v1, easily topropable problem, those shiny hangers look stupid, it's 15ft tall. Maybe bolts are easier, hell i love clipping at rumney, but when i went out tr'ing "back in my day" i brought a long static rope, if i couldn't safely tr it we moved on, i didn't bust out the ol cordless. i'm not saying don't bolt but why must u drill the crap out of everything you "discover".

JChepes · · West Ossipee, NH · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 7,390

How about a cleanup day? Lets turn off the shit show for now and start by picking up some trash. The area sure could use it.

mnatti · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 305

I was thinking a clean up next month? Again, something to discuss at the Rainbow Coalition.

mnatti · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 305

HBThree- Thanks for the input. If you don't want to be a part of a local climbers group.... fine. By putting your 2 cent in on this forum though, we can at least tally your opinion in to the mix. To some degree, I agree with a lot of what you say (or can at least se you side of the coin). In places like North Conway, there is a HUGE selection of climbs for all types and for any number of people. The one of the major problems I see with this area (as do many of the others currently involved in climbing around Cape Ann) is that prior to this new wave of development/ redevelopment, the number of new climbers to available (clean) routes was getting drastically out of proportion. We are trying to rekindle interest in some of the old classics and some possibly new areas to easy the pressure on places like Red Rocks main wall as well as get the info out there about the history of some of the old climbs. Perhaps we should just leave it alone.... but in a time of smart phones, on-line guides and climbing forums.... the word is getting out. The people are coming.
I applaud the pioneers of this futile pursuit. I love watching folks like Herb Stillman, even today, soloing 5.10 slab lines because "that's how he has always done it." The Millens, the Barbers, Rubin, Webster etc.... lots of strong innovaters set the bar quite high with their bold styles and enthusiasm but times have changed. Climbing is no longer a handful of fun loving hardmen out to try something new. It is a popular activity which I feel now requires a bit of resource management in certain areas so as not to burn out the environment.
As far as bolting an easily top ropable climb? The 5.10 face line at Pink Floyd has never had so much chalk on it! People are using it as a great way to learn to lead on a fun, hard line with out a fear of blowing out an RP and breaking a leg. Does the end justify the means? Perhaps not but since all of these alternate areas have been cleaned up and made a bit more "user friendly," the traffic at the main wall has settled down a bit and the old climbs are seeing the love they have been missing for years!

Chris McNeil · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 2,935

Sounds great.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

mnatti- you finally sucked me into this. Though I don't climb in the area anymore, I once spent quite a bit of time with the old guys like Herb.
You are saying that times have changed and let's throw out the past ? Bolt it because " the rp may rip" so what ? All route should be safe ??? I don't get it esp. at a place that can be tr'd with ease.

mnatti · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 305

I think what we are going for is a) actually putting some of the history out there as that so much of Cape Ann's bold climbing history has been undocumented b) cleaning up some of the old lines and making easier TR set ups so that they can be enjoyed with out a web of 60 foot static lines or a fear of girdling trees c) make some of the old solos/ "R" trad lines safer, with permission from the first ascentionists. Herb, for one, is keen to allow most of his old "ankle breakers" retro-bolted. If a pin had been placed and rusted out (such as the line "No Pro," I will replace it with a bolt. On his climbs where ground fall or ledge fall are obvious, between good gear, we will work out bolt placement. I will admit, a few lines were bolted in the Red Rocks area (by myself and others) that had ben lead in the past but due to a lack of written history they were thought to be either new lines or old TR routes that had gone in to obscurity. Their futures are still pending.
I realize that I have stirred up the hive a bit. I will admit that "easier" is one of the reasons all of the steel has been flying around. Safe, enjoyable leads is another reason.... for better or worse. Herb wants his son to be able to learn to lead on his old routes with out breaking a leg. I like that too! Perhaps all we need to be doing is re-cleaning lines and posting there where abouts? I have seen Down Under cleaned twice and this is the first time I have actually seen other climbers there..... I think that is cool. Was it the bolts or the cleaning or just the talk of the town? I figure a bit of all three. In the end, all of this has brought out a lot of discussion- good. It has also got people interested in climbing in other places around Cape Ann- good. Perhaps we need to slow the roll on the drill- fine. I am certainly willing to listen to all input. I think a coalition is good for both idea sharing, beta pooling and access issues.... so that is the direction I will be focusing my energy for a while.
Again, thank you every one for what ever part you are playing in this.

1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,101
john strand wrote:mnatti- you finally sucked me into this. Though I don't climb in the area anymore, I once spent quite a bit of time with the old guys like Herb. You are saying that times have changed and let's throw out the past ? Bolt it because " the rp may rip" so what ? All route should be safe ??? I don't get it esp. at a place that can be tr'd with ease.
I am not a local but I have been climbing regularly for the last 35 years. I too would like to see the past remembered. A lot of the old school fear fests inspire me and I have done a lot of them in my area. I would not want to see them go away. In my case there is a ton of new rock so there is no need to bolt over them. The past can only be lost if there is no record of it. The beauty of this site is that you can post it up. Guidebook authors can write chapters that keep the past alive. No need for it to disappear.

If a route is an old classic and part of what makes it a classic is that you have to face your fears and step up mentally I would leave it alone. If every route at the crag was done in the old scary style and you have limited stone it might be worth retro bolting some of them.

Not sure how much rock you folks have but if it is scarce and you can clean up and utilize some old lost crags so more can enjoy them I think if you can get a rough consensus you should. Retro the routes you have permission to retro. Leading is way more fun than top-roping even if it is a stupid 15 foot face that others have soloed.

I think TR anchors are a good idea. I am not a big fan of slinging trees. It is also a good compromise for keeping the old routes in their present state and it will get them climbed more. I love it when I climb some old school route I know was done in hiking boots.

Just some thoughts. You folks will work it out. I applaud your efforts to work out a solution. Good luck.
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Maybe we can talk herb into revisiting the old guidebook plans, I still have a not so rough draft of parts.

mnatti · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 305

That would be like GOLD around here..... and not because we would then run out and bolt all the old, forgotten classics, but so we WOULDN'T go out and bolt all the old, forgotten classics! We would probably clean some up and talk about anchors? I'd be keen to chat more about this sometime. Shoot me a PM if you want..... or call Herb.

jim.dangle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 5,882

Does anyone know about climbing on Wheeler St. in Gloucester? There's a little crag literally right by the road (and next to someone's house) with what look likes some decent cracks in it. (Also a ton a rock behind the houses there but probably no access.)

While I'm on the subject: Anyone know anything about seacliff climbing on Cape Ann? Someone told me it was possible on Salt Island (off Good Harbor). I've eyed some spots off the Coolidge reservation in Manchester/Magnolia but they are on private property. There has to be some cool spots around. What about Castle Rock on Marblehead (haven't been there in while but I remember scrambling around there.) Anyone?

Then there is that huge lump of stone behind someone's house sort of near Overlook Ave in Essex. Has that been climbed? Any routes? Anyone know the owner?

Also, if anyone is interested in finding new stuff Ozzy posted a map with potential bouldering areas on the front page of the Cape Ann site (in the comments section). Easy to miss but pretty useful.

Jim

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

I would be happy to put up the stuff I have with Herbs permit--I don't have a scanner though.

I can mail a copy to ya'll and....

mnatti · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 305

Jim, the crag at Wheelers is partially on public land, mostly on private land. The triangle that juts out (nice slab and crack on left face, choice arete and a few sweet cracks on the right face) is, as far as I know, legal.... though this is one of the areas I want to work on establishing access to. LONG slings for top anchors are required there. Thee boulders up in Pooles Hill above that crag are pretty choice as well. The lump behind overlook (visible from 133?) is not worth the effort and I believe it is on private land. Shark's Mouth in Manchester (by white beach?) is a great overhanging sea cliff with two bolted routes and a sick roof crack but is only accessible at low tide and is questionably legal as that you need to claim old fishing rights in order to be in the high tide zone. The island of Good Harbor is awesome. Again, low tide only, or a lot of wading. Rafe's Chasm is sick but HARD.

trundlebum · · Las Vegas NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 85

Interesting thread:

I just bummbled in
(Strand you should let me know about these little thread gems)

Sorry guys but I have to chuckle a little at all the talk of route names, ratings, bolts and scrub work.

I burned up many a wire brush at Red Rock...
That was back in the mid 70's

Someone should shoot a thread link to Kurt Winkler.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

i figured you would have some input trundle.. sorry for the delay

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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