Best easy trad in the Gunks?
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So what does everyone think? I'm talking around the 5.4 to 5.5 range? Also I know the Gunks tend to be a little stiff so how does your route compare to others not at the Gunks of the same grade, or maybe even harder? |
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I would say that the 5.4 and 5.5 routes there feel like 5.4 or 5.5. |
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Yes, it is. |
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pooler wrote:So what does everyone think? I'm talking around the 5.4 to 5.5 range? Also I know the Gunks tend to be a little stiff so how does your route compare to others not at the Gunks of the same grade, or maybe even harder?If you are wary of the grades, try Betty (5.3) or Easy Overhang (5.2) first. Then maybe Sixish nearby at 5.4. All are fun. Most anything with stars on here or in the Williams guidebooks will be worthwhile. (just avoid the "Extreme Angles" guidebook ) You could always hit Peterskill first for easy access to toproping to get a sense for the climbing. It makes it easy to bail and get your gear on rappel if you get on something too tough for you. Note that there is a closure in the Trapps at the moment from Credibility Gap to Bitchy Virgin, so a lot of good options are off limits until perhaps July. |
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Jackie is a popular/fun climb. mountainproject.com/v/jacki… |
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I'm a total pansy on lead and I enjoyed leading the grades your talking about at the gunks. I just had to get used to the horizontal bands "hiding" jugs that were just out of sight. Know how to place a tricam before you go and you'll feel like you've got good gear. |
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Bunny is a pretty mellow and straight forward lead but get there early because it's usually taken. |
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I'll second the other ideas. Some other suggestions, in no particular order: |
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PTR wrote:I'll second the other ideas. Some other suggestions, in no particular order: Gelsa Beginner's Delight No Picnic Minty Casa Emilio Red Pillar Southern Pillar Northern Pillar Ribs Arch Belly Roll Hawk Frog's Headgood list. I go for 3 Pines, Belly Roll, and Jackie for sure. |
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Belly roll can be intimidating for the new leader IMO. |
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I sucked leading when I first did it back on old gear in '82. Which pitch was bad? I just remember the first one well. |
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My absolute favorite 5.5 is Ursula (well, it's not actually a 5.5). |
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PTR wrote:I'll second the other ideas. Some other suggestions, in no particular order: Gelsa Beginner's Delight No Picnic Minty Casa Emilio Red Pillar Southern Pillar Northern Pillar Ribs Arch Belly Roll Hawk Frog's HeadNo doubt, this is a great list, but without actually knowing anything about the OP's ability to lead, I would recommend caution. The difference between Southern Pillar and Hawk is not to be trivialized. |
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Warm up on Easy Keyhole.... It's every bit of 5.2 off the ground. |
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You're very fortunate to have such a wonderful crag to work through these grades. I have as many fond memories climbing 5.2-5.7 as any harder grades. Enjoy them all. |
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PosiDave wrote:Warm up on Easy Keyhole.... It's every bit of 5.2 off the ground.The start on Easy Keyhole is probably harder than any of the other routes you posted. |
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JohnWesely wrote: The start on Easy Keyhole is probably harder than any of the other routes you posted.You aren't supposed to tell anyone... I got sent on that my first day on lead. Took me 10 minutes to think about if I really wanted to lead. Did it to a v7 boulderer and he felt humbled (after he threw my rack onto the carriage road and bitched about how it must be atleast 5.8. |
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Dave, |
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Jim Sweeney wrote: ...Of the routes listed so far, the recent falcon nesting closure includes: Beginner's Delight Minty Northern & Southern Pillars Hawk Asphodel Fingerlocks or Cedar Box You'll have to wait for the little falcons to leave home to climb these.Shit, forgot about that. |
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With my limited gunks experience, I'll second Easy O and Horseman. |
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PTR wrote:I'll second the other ideas. Some other suggestions, in no particular order: Gelsa Beginner's Delight No Picnic Minty Casa Emilio Red Pillar Southern Pillar Northern Pillar Ribs Arch Belly Roll Hawk Frog's HeadX2 on Gelsa, fun three pitch climb. It gets crowded so plan accordingly. |