(10) Grab Your Balls
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 69 votes
Type: | Sport, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | Todd Damico, Tim Anderson 2001 |
Page Views: | 4,548 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | truello on Nov 26, 2007 |
Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
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Access Issue: Private Land
Details
This popular climbing are is located on private land owned by a logging company. Climbers have climbed here for 30 years without issues from the landowner, however. Local neighbors have also been generally friendly. Please ensure that it stays this way by packing out your trash, keeping noise especially at the parking to a minimum, and avoid blocking any of the roads with your vehicle. If the parking is full, go somewhere else, or park back down at the ball fields across breakneck road and walk the extra 5 minutes.
Description
A tricky start off the ground or easier if started from the rock to the right. Climb up easy ledges to a committing crux near the top.
A steady 5.7 climb sandwiched by two legit 5.9 cruxes, one at the bottom (from the ground) and one at the anchors. The ground start is particularly vulnerable to a sketchy PG13+ landing (more than a pad can cover), especially on lead without a stick-clipped first bolt, so people seem to skip it and come at it from the right instead. The hardest stretch is that portion coming up the face from the ground to the first clip, so it's probably a 5.9- (mostly 5.7ish climbing) without it.
A steady 5.7 climb sandwiched by two legit 5.9 cruxes, one at the bottom (from the ground) and one at the anchors. The ground start is particularly vulnerable to a sketchy PG13+ landing (more than a pad can cover), especially on lead without a stick-clipped first bolt, so people seem to skip it and come at it from the right instead. The hardest stretch is that portion coming up the face from the ground to the first clip, so it's probably a 5.9- (mostly 5.7ish climbing) without it.
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