Clear Lycra
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 2.3 from 8 votes
Type: | Trad, Sport, 150 ft (45 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,045 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | slim on Jul 21, 2010 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Clear Lycra is a very good, pretty long, steep slab route on nice rock. As with all of the routes on this wall, the first bolt is up there a ways, and continuously difficult climbing is found well above the bolts.
Begin from the bergshrund-like rock gully and carefully edge, smedge, and smear past the first 2 bolts (this felt like the crux). Above the 2nd bolt, angle up and left on easier climbing (Hubbel's blue book shows this as up and right) to the 3rd bolt. The climbing gets less steep above the 3rd bolt, but is still fairly continuous in the 5.9 range. Hubbel's book shows a bolted anchor to the right, but I didn't see it. Instead, there is a fairly stout juniper on a ledge up to the right.
Begin from the bergshrund-like rock gully and carefully edge, smedge, and smear past the first 2 bolts (this felt like the crux). Above the 2nd bolt, angle up and left on easier climbing (Hubbel's blue book shows this as up and right) to the 3rd bolt. The climbing gets less steep above the 3rd bolt, but is still fairly continuous in the 5.9 range. Hubbel's book shows a bolted anchor to the right, but I didn't see it. Instead, there is a fairly stout juniper on a ledge up to the right.
Location
Clear Lycra is the [2nd] left-most route on the north-facing Grey Wave Wall.
Scramble up a rock gully at the base of the wall (kind of like a rock bergschrund). Hubbel's guide shows bolted anchors at the top, but they aren't there. There is a sturdy juniper to the right, but you will need webbing and biners if you want to rap. Or, you can walk left on the ledge and hike down. Or, you can traverse the ledge farther to the right to a 2 bolt anchor (old buttonheads and/or Stardryvens) which will require new webbing.
Scramble up a rock gully at the base of the wall (kind of like a rock bergschrund). Hubbel's guide shows bolted anchors at the top, but they aren't there. There is a sturdy juniper to the right, but you will need webbing and biners if you want to rap. Or, you can walk left on the ledge and hike down. Or, you can traverse the ledge farther to the right to a 2 bolt anchor (old buttonheads and/or Stardryvens) which will require new webbing.
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