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Bloody Tax Break
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.1 from 51
votes
Routes in IRS Wall
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Alf's Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Atomic Pile T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bloody Tax Break T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bullet Head T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Commander Cody T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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H & R Block S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hidden Taxes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Mr. Bunny Vs. Six Unknown Agents T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mr. Bunny's Refund Check T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mr. Bunny's Tax Shelter T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Nuclear Waste T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Serbian Stairway T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Squatter's Right T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tax Evasion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tax Free T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Tax Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Mike Forkash, Steve Gerberding and Jay Goodwin (aka Punkman) 2/83 |
| Page Views: | 1,708 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 11, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
To find Bloody Tax Break, approach IRS wall as for Taxman. Bloody Tax Break ascends the thin fingers-to-tips crack about 3-4 meters to the right hand side of Taxman, near or on the right hand arete of that same wall. The precise way to approach is difficult, but more or less consists of walking towards IRS wall, approaching it's lower left hand side, then clambering up and over boulders towards it's upper right hand side until you encounter these two stunning fingercracks in a flat wall capped by a roof just below the top. Climb up to the crack at the right hand side. Near the ground, you can step to the right and climb easy terrain with the crack or step left and make an eliminate problem out of the crack, climbing a better line on better rock. As the climb continues, a bulge on the right side of the arete forces those on the right into the harder climbing for the crux anyway. There are two cruxes on this route, of a similar nature to that of Taxman, but perhaps a little harder; one 1/2 way up, and one switching cracks to the right at the small roof as the original line disappears. This climb would get more stars if the rock were more solid.
Protection
The pro on this route is reasonable at the crux, and below that can be had with patience. I seriously recommend taking some thin cams or slider nuts if you like to put in a lot of gear or are not really solid at 5.10-. Fixed anchors up and left 10' above 'Taxman' provide a convenient belay and rap off.
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