Gunks Grid Bolting

The Russian did it.
Sorry killis, no pictures but it still happened and it is still true.

Question for those condoning this bolting.

If this is on private property and the owner objects, what impact do you think it will have on climber access to private property at the Gunks?

Where the hell is the Access Fund? Hellooooooo????

Dudes are gonna go all Kruk and Kennedy on their asses....end of story

Rob Alexander wrote: I'm not sure if the wall is grid bolted in the strictest sence of the word, but in the gunks, anything more than 2 bolts could be considered "grid bolted" lol

Well said, chop the thing. If the FA was done on gear in one of the last great TRAD climbing areas in the lower 48, get rid of those bolts ASAP. Just a request.

people like to exaggerate and "grid bolting" anything is the great exaggeration.

apparently they like to be vague.. calling people out with no names(the OP) or route names is lame.

can anyone specify which cliff and where this route is? its a shame to see this sort of thing going on at the gunks, especially when theres so much potential for hard climbing up north in the Adirondacks where the mixed mentality is more widely accepted.

It's probably best not to disclose the exact location in this forum considering it may be on private property. I did hear that there is some debate as to who owns it..

As far as Trad lines being bolted… I'm not sure about that. I was told these routes are in the 13 or harder range. I don't think they've been led before on gear. I did hear of 1 in the 12 range that's the hard man’s warm-up.. I don't know if that's the Ramano line or not. I wonder if RR had permission to put up whatever line is being claimed he put up there back in the day... Obviously still not the same as bolting someone else’s property but still…

Killis Howard wrote:By dorseyec Feb 19, 2012 This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project. I'd just like to say I'm proud of the admins for finally starting to enforce the first rule in this poster's case. As far as the accusation goes, this whole "I am the judge and jury of MountainPoopfest and Thou wilt kneel at minest feet, knave" act is really tiresome. Posting facts, pics, naming names if you know for sure what's up is pretty hard to argue with. Proof-deprived drama posts just lure the Dorsal posts, as you're finding (though Rgold is one measured, thoughtful mofo with consistency. You are the minority here, sir.) If someone's illegally bolting and causing access issues, would logic dictate: A) Contacting the bolter and asking what the deal is B) Talking to the local oldschoolers about removing access-endangering hardware or at least camoing the metal so it's invisible to all but those in the know C) Running naked in the streets, screaming "we're going streaking, everyone's doing it!" D) Posting on one of 100+ websites featuring info about the Gunks demanding that the Mad Bolter kneel before you and kiss thine ring of starfishery. I'm not a fan of jackass gym horseshit at the crags, don't think I'm pulling a Sahalie and defending the alleged jackass or jackasses and what they may or may have not done. But could the histrionic posts from the Gunks be a little less PMS tea and a little more "Ivan Greene chipped the 3rd and fourth crimp on the Menstrual Attitude boulder's Red Menace V10 problem, located at the base of the Tampax Wall near Rushing Rivers 10c R, see included photos, and David Lama was with me and saw it too" Obviously that shit didn't happen, but if you're not willing to say what happened and who did it, why fucking bother to set down the Hitachi Magic Wand long enough to type up these empty challenges?

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Looks like a dope route... anyone wanna get out and crank?

NYZoo wrote:It's probably best not to disclose the exact location in this forum considering it may be on private property. I did hear that there is some debate as to who owns it.. As far as Trad lines being bolted… I'm not sure about that. I was told these routes are in the 13 or harder range. I don't think they've been led before on gear. I did hear of 1 in the 12 range that's the hard man’s warm-up.. I don't know if that's the Ramano line or not. I wonder if RR had permission to put up whatever line is being claimed he put up there back in the day... Obviously still not the same as bolting someone else’s property but still…

The grade seems like a distraction. Perhaps some were aided? Is it fine to bolt Spinal Traction since it hasn't been freed (ignoring the Preserve policy for that hypothetical)? And it isn't like 13 and up hasn't been freed at the Gunks.

Assuming they had the landowner's permission, it would still be lame if they bolted existing lines. Worse if they didn't have that permission, which seems to be the case.

The above applies whether it was done by a world class climber, no name hardman, or neophtye.

Assuming it was OK with the land owners, adding some bolts to free an aid line is ok to me unless the aid line is some sort of super aid classic and the free version would be nothing special. Free trumps aid for the most part in my book.

M Sprague wrote:Free trumps aid for the most part in my book.

+10

The apparently were existing climbs (Free/Aid). On Private property. If they were aided with clean gear you should sack up and stop being a kid about it. Or just drive else where to bolt stuff.

Chris treggE wrote:This thread is on seriously thin ice. I would not be surprised, and neither should anyone else, if the site owners make it disappear. The post with the photo will be deleted shortly as it apparently is a stolen copyrighted photo, in addition to accusations.

Oh come on, you know that photo was covered under fair use, and is not "stolen."

For the uniformed:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fair_use

Also, it's very silly when people bring in the whole "you climb at X level and he climbs at Y, so you suck and are wrong" thing. It doesn't make sense .