Hexes vs. Cams

If I am looking at getting hexes that would be about the same size as cams 3,4,5 what size hex would I be looking at? Sorry if this is already a thread I wasn't sure where to find it

Thanks

gumby bells!

the 10 BD is about a #3 camalot... bigger and youre prolly looking at trango big bros.................... or #4 and 5 cams

mattp215 wrote:If I am looking at getting hexes that would be about the same size as cams 3,4,5 what size hex would I be looking at? Sorry if this is already a thread I wasn't sure where to find it Thanks

All of the information you are looking for can be found on the product's webpages. Just do a little research and you'll find what you are looking for.

#3 BD Camalot: 50.7-87.9 mm, 2.00-3.46 in
#4 BD Camalot: 66.0-114.7 mm, 2.60-4.51 in
#5 BD Camalot: 85.4-148.5 mm, 3.36-5.85 in

#9 BD Hex: 47/63.7 mm, 1.85/2.51 in
#10 BD Hex: 55.6/75.2 mm, 2.19/2.96 in
#11 BD Hex: 65/89.2 mm, 2.56/3.51 in

...So you can cover the range of a #3 and part of the range of a #4 camalot with hexes 9-11. Black Diamond (and I think most other companies) do not make hexes bigger than that, so you need to get cams or big-bros or something of the sort.

if i were you i wouldn't waste time/money with hexes

thanks aaron, and scott why is that

not scott, s denny....was just talking to a scott

because cams are much more useful and most of the time safer. if you buy hexes, eventually you will still end up buying cams. so i wouldn't waste the money on hexes... just go straight for the best gear in climbing.

mountainproject.com/v/fs-bl…

buy used if you insist on hexes, but do note the "placed once" in that thread

I bought some hexes over 25 years ago when I was new to climbing. Most of them ended up in the attic never used, some of them never even slung. It is only the last couple years that I have used some of them. I fixed a couple in a strange crack with a hammer since nothing else would work. I actually find a couple that are thin hands/ off finger sized fairly handy. If I have a bomber placement I would rather fall on them than my cams.

It depends on the rock you will be climbing, but I would suggest only getting a few to widen your nut selection a little, if at all and put the money towards cams. For building a rack, I think most would prioritize getting a set of nuts and a full set of cams up to say #4 Camalot size, then fill in with multiples as you find you need them and with some off-set nuts then other stuff once you have a better sense of whether you would really use them.

S Denny wrote:because cams are much more useful and most of the time safer. if you buy hexes, eventually you will still end up buying cams. so i wouldn't waste the money on hexes... just go straight for the best gear in climbing.

I would agree and disagree with S Denny. I've only been climbing for 3 years now and I love my hexes. I picked up a set of wc wired rockcentrics used for 35$ thinking I should understand how they work, if for no other reason than to just put pre-cam era leads in perspective. They supplement my rack very well, and I end up placing at least one on a good chunk of the routes I climb.

However, it is important to note that I like to climb at Devil's Lake, where the cracks are more often "hex friendly" when compared to many other areas, and the approach is very short, 30 mins tops. Sometimes a hex is more bomber than a cam, sometimes a cam fits better.

Hexes are definitely cheaper, which is really a fantastic way to get up some routes that require bigger pro without dropping a paycheck on gear. Hexes, for me at least, are especially useful for setting multiple topropes when you have plenty of time to fiddle with the gear and you want to hang a bunch of ropes.

That being said, cams are way better majority of the time. Usually cams are easier to place and clean. Hexes on overhangs are often impossible to place quickly, and the bigger ones you are looking at are usually harder to place with one hand. YMMV.

I would consider getting those three hexes for 30 bucks instead of the 180 or so you would have to spend on those three cams, especially if you are just running into problems setting top ropes. The price also makes it a lot easier to bail off of them when things get ugly. Hell, for the price of one number 5 you could get a full set of hexes. However, as S Denny says, you will probably end up buying the cams some day down the line.

if yr using #4-5s camalots youre likely looking at offwidths ... cams can be bumped up, hexes not so much ...

Every so often you'll find a climber who rocks the hexes. Last climber I saw with them was into the Wild Country rockcentrics. If you've got it in you, I say for sure you should tote the hexes. That way you don't have to mark your gear to distinguish it either.

I own a set of the WC dyneema slung hexes. Really glad to have them. They don't place as quickly as a cam, but they weigh less and help expand my coverage in those sizes. No way I'd take them for anything too hard, but with practice they can be placed one handed pretty quickly. Great for alpine use and multipitch climbing so you don't have to use your cams in the anchor.

Don't let the haters sway you, cowbells have their place in the modern climber's toolbox. They just have a learning curve and limitations that some aren't willing to deal with... or they have a strong wallet/back and can afford to buy/carry a bunch of big cams.

As far as sizing goes, the old-school BD hexes go up to the largest out of all manufacturers afaik. Other companies use different sizing. Another biggie to consider is whether you want slings or wires. Each has its pros and cons. Play with them in the store and borrow some from a friend. I'd even bet you can find a mountain of them for sale cheap here on MP.

Hexes are well worth the very small price. They are lighter, and will in some cases place as fast or faster then a cam. If you ever have to bail you can do so with out breaking the bank.

The well diversified rack, set of nuts, the first 4 tri-cams, 7,8,9 hex,4 small cams (tcu sizes 1-4) one full set of cams (whatever brand).

And they'll last for years I have the full set that I bought used in 86. Reslung of course. Even have the old number 11 I see they don't make the 10 any more, at least REI only shows 1-9 online. In the end I found those 3 listed to be the most useful.

Have TWO of the BD #11. Pro for both climbing and bears.
Haters gunna hate.

Placed both of them and the #8 I have as well. Have two smaller ones but those have yet to get used due to them being in the nut range. Didn't pay more than $30 for all this, local gear shop was more than happy to get rid of it. Going to see if I can talk down the two Metolius hexes they still have lying around :P

I own #1-4 of the DMM Torque Nuts. You can get them for $18 each new, less when on sale. dmmclimbing.com/products/to…

The great thing is that the set of 4 hexes covers the range of 5 or 6 hexes by other brands. Also, anything smaller and you'd want to place a tricam or a nut.

As to their utility, well, I've placed mine a lot. Granted, I've only been climbing easy stuff (under 5.8), but I've found plenty of very solid placements, usually from a decent stance. I carry 4 hexes, which don't weigh that much, and have supplemented my rack quite well.

Also, as far as sizes, if you were referring to the Black Diamond C4 sizes when you said "cams 3,4,5", the blue #4 (largest) DMM Torque Nut is roughly equivalent to a #3 C4 cam. If you want larger than that, then you need to get a Black Diamond Hexentric #11 (their largest), which is the only hex available larger than the #4 Torque Nut; however, it may not be worth it.

I find myself using my hexes in almost every anchor I build for rope soloing. I like the wires versus the slings because I can "thread" the wires through smaller slots than I could if I had slings.

Hexes make good for setting a belay anchor without eating up your supply of cams that can be better utilized on lead. And as stated, they are much cheaper to leave when things go south. I like the old school slung hexes because I can girth hitch slings to them and eliminate a carabiner while placing them in really deep cracks. It's hard to beat a textbook hex placement, and they do not walk into a crack like a cam. But like all that shiny climbing gear, they are a tool that have their limitations. The buck stops with parallel cracks. Nice to have a few cow bells, or gummy bells, on the old gun belt.

While it is a very tricky placement you can get a hex to cam in a parallel crack. Mostly tho their great for those perfect bottle neck slots.

I didn't much care for the wired ones that I have used they really don't work in parallel cracks. Tho I guess there could be an argument that you can use the wire to put them in deeper.

To the OP: If you're looking to cover the same size range as a BD #3, #4 and #5 with a lot less weight and cost you should look into the #5, #6, and #7 Tricams.

#5 covers 2.24" to 3.5", weighs 4.23 oz.
#6 covers 2.87" to 4.13", weighs 7.05 oz.
#7 covers 3.62" to 5.51", weighs 9.31 oz

In fact, you can buy the #6 and #7 from REI right now for $55 total! The set of three would normally run about $160.

I take my big Tricams with me on most trips and they get used quite often.