Mountain Project Logo

is 5.8 really that much easier than 5.10

Original Post
Martin Harris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 200

I realize this sounds stupid but on several occasions and this is mostly in sport climbing I get on a route that is a 5.8 and there is one super comitting move where I am all WTF this is 5.8 right. Realizing that 5.10 is harder because it is usally more sustained blah blah blah but am I really weird or is this common.

I can't wait for the spray this is going to create. And yes I can lead 5.10 trad and sport on a semi consistent basis and have never fallen on a 5.8

Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837

Yes. Or, no. Maybe? Wait, what?

JesseT · · Portland, OR · Joined May 2011 · Points: 100

Since the rating system is totally subjective and everyone climbs differently there will absolutely be 5.8's that feel harder to you than some 5.10's.

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,241

If grade discrepancies disturb you, I would caution you to never take up trad climbing.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

If I choose my sequence properly, I can turn almost any 5.8 into a 5.12.
Mark

ian watson · · Sandia park, NM · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 235
Mark E Dixon wrote:If I choose my sequence properly, I can turn almost any 5.8 into a 5.12. Mark
your route finding seems to be on par with mine.
Robert Buswold · · Northglenn, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 80

I'd say that yes, normally there is a big difference between the grades. However, just a few days ago I climbed a 5.7 that felt harder than a 5.9 that was literally 10 feet away. I think sometimes a certain type of move just feels hard for me because I don't get to practice it that often, so it can make the grade feel more difficult.

Matt N · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 415

and 5.9+ is harder than 5.11-

disclaimer: (not that I lead 11s or .9+)

oh and then there's the '5.5 awkward' or '5.7 polished'

not to mention 5.9OW

Okay, seriously now. When a 5.8 sport route feels too hard, I run it again on TR and it makes such a big difference. Leading is still very mental for me and a TR cushion allows you to find the 5.8 sequence you missed b/c you were freaking out on lead.

MTN MIA · · Vail · Joined May 2006 · Points: 405

Oh yeah.... for sure...... just hop on the Oomph slot in Boulder Canyon..... a classic 5.8

:-)

GabeO · · Boston, MA · Joined May 2006 · Points: 302

Well if the difficulty of the moves is not the issue, but the commitment is, then yeah - 5.8 and 5.10 can feel nearly the same. Or if the 5.10 has no tricky committing moves, it can feel easier.

Been there.

Go do the "5.7" original finish to the Yellow Spur. 40 feet of unprotected balancy technical climbing with the crux move at the end just before you get some gear. That final move is probably only 5.8+, but I've literally done 5.11 moves that "felt" easier. Of course it's quite possible that I did the sequence wrong (twice).

GO

Kilroywashere! London · · Harrisonburg, Virginia · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 280
Matt N wrote:and 5.9+ is harder than 5.11- disclaimer: (not that I lead 11s or .9+)
marshalls madness. thats all i'll say hahaha

BE AFRAID OF THE +
Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90

Just another thought:
A lot of the time when you're climbing well below your limit your brain doesn't treat it the same as when you knowingly jump on something at your on-sight level.
You don't get nearly as psyched up for the cruiser route because you "know" you'll hike it... then inevitably you'll hit a few moves that demand your attention and all of a sudden it feels much harder than it should for the grade.

I know a lot of times I climb with better footwork, make better decisions and use better tactics when I'm on something that's hard for me precisely because it demands my full concentration.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

5.8's and 9's at Devils Lake often climb like real-friction world 5.10's. Sandbagged for sure there alot.

germsauce Epstein · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 55

if you have trouble telling the difference between 5.8 and 5.10 you should probably go hop on a 5.13, sounds like maybe you have superhuman strength and ability that has only been suppressed by societal norms of grades and other bullshit.

J. Albers · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,926
Old Custer wrote:If grade discrepancies disturb you, I would caution you to never take up trad climbing.
Now that's funny. I agree though. What do you think, does 5.9 "wide" equal about 5.11d sport? Or maybe 5.9R slab equals about 5.12a sport? Seems about right eh?
Mark Mueller · · Surprise, AZ · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 185

I feel like you knew the answer to your question before you posted it

SeaJellie · · Ann Arbor, MI · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 5

You obviously onsite 5.11c.

The climbing scale is logarithmic, as someone pointed out long before me.

When you're nearing your limit, each letter represents a bigger and bigger gap in difficulty.

At grades far below your limit, it all blurs together.

So, what you really should have been saying was on the 5.10, feck, this feels like 5.8!

Of course, this is why so many moderate climbs at newer sport areas have funky grades.

S Denny · · Aspen, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 20

5.8 is really that much easier than 5.10

Martin Harris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 200

Halarious
I figured that's what ppl would say
And I mostly trad climb and I feel that trad grades are generally more consistent than limestone sport.
But I think I am not good on limestone for the most part. However on that same note I agreenthat 1960 to say 1970 5.9+ is way harder than most moder 10b/c

Martin Harris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 200

And u r correct I already knew the answer but I didn't c a way this would turn into a dum ethics debate and I was curious if I was the only person that can insight 5.10 and the ocasional 11 and still get on a 5.8 and say WTF
Thus far I think I am not that odd cuz many ppl agree that it happens and it did not turn into an ethics debate so hell yes
Thread success

Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,330

There are three places in the united states where 5.8 is no joke...Index, the Adirondacks, and Joshua Tree...I'd also consider the Gunks, though climbing juggy roofs does not necessarily equate to sandbagged.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
Post a Reply to "is 5.8 really that much easier than 5.10"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.