new reverso 4....

just got it today, easy to notice how much lighter it is than the 3, also the release hole for plaquette mode has been opened up a bit. wish i could've had it in time for seneca yesterday to test it out, but im assuming it will have similar workings as the 3, just in a much lighter package.

Still got my original funky shaped Reverso I. Never had any problems with it, but it is a big bulky.

woodchuck, is yours the plate version?

i wish i didnt have to replace mine, but it was from when the 3's first came out, and after guiding with it, it was developing some sharp spots and looking quite worse for wear...pretty stoked with the new one, not so stoked that REI was the only place i could find them in stock.

i hate buying from them.

Kilroywashere! wrote:woodchuck, is yours the plate version? i wish i didnt have to replace mine, but it was from when the 3's first came out, and after guiding with it, it was developing some sharp spots and looking quite worse for wear...pretty stoked with the new one, not so stoked that REI was the only place i could find them in stock. i hate buying from them.

Yup. the solid metal plate with reverso device fastened to the top of it.

please post up reviews and opinions, thanks

Upon first playing around with it, the first noticeable difference between the 3 and 4 is the weight. They really did a great job shaving off every gram they could. A little milling out of the side panels, and a few holes at the clip in point for plaquette mode has really made this an ultra lightweight device, props to petzl for that.

As far as functioning, well, its a Reverso, there aren't any noticable major differences that would change its performance when belaying or rappelling from the 3. Other than the weight difference, the biggest improvement is the release hole for lowering your second when in plaquette mode. i honestly disliked the 3 for that reason, feeding out a little slack was a pain, especially when it was weighted even a bit. On the 3 i remedied this problem with a small piece of accessory cord that i could grab and pull just a make it easier to feed a little slack, they designed the 3's release hole to fit a spirit carabiner, and i dont have any of those handy ever. An actual lower from plaquette mode involved girth hitching a dynex sling through the release hole, redirecting it through the anchor, clipping it to my harness, and using my bodyweight to angle the device to lower while i held the tag end to control the descent.

With the new devices modification, i can actually throw a locker in there, use it as a handle, or throw a sling on it and redirect it a whole helluva lot easier than the system before.
here are a few shots i got showing you the difference between the new and the old. this is just a little setup i put up on my hangboard, involving a couple #4 tcus and a 24(note it was not setup to be really proper and equalized, as its not a true sliding x, but you get the point)...as you can see from the shots the new allows the locker to be easily clipped in, and flipped around to do whatever you need to with it, really a great setup
first the Reverso 3, showing how far in the locker in would go until it stopped.

now the 4.


so thats pretty much it, i'll be happy to answer any question you might have on it so far. cant wait to get out and try it on the rock asap. hopefully sunday if the weather is good enough.

btw, here are the specs when comparing the Reverso 4 to the new BD atc guide.
Reverso 4-59g-34.99-7.5-11mm ropes-Made in France
BD ATC Guide-88g-29.95-7.7-11mm ropes-Made in China

Got one about 3 weeks ago at Bent Gate. Love it! I have had all the reverso's at one point and this one is the best. Palquette hole is the most notable and worthy improvement now able to accept a smaller sized biner. Also it appears to me that the whole device has a smaller volume than last. Plus I got the orange one and it matches my boots! P.S. I know how gear junkies get, but for the love of god don't give your money to REI go local!

Ryan N wrote: P.S. I know how gear junkies get, but for the love of god don't give your money to REI go local!

i couldnt find them anywhere else than rei unfortunately, wasnt aware bent gate had them! i absolutely hated buying it from them, oh well.

Kilroywashere! wrote: i couldnt find them anywhere else than rei unfortunately, wasnt aware bent gate had them! i absolutely hated buying it from them, oh well.

Gosh you just have such strong morals.... its a shame you had to give money to such an evil corporation.

given a choice between a place like bent gate and rei, i'd pick bent gate every time.

i ususally choose small mom and pop shops over any others, but in this case i needed a new belay device, and rei was the first that i found that had them...

Kilroywashere! wrote:given a choice between a place like bent gate and rei, i'd pick bent gate every time.

Well obviously not this time, did you even call them? Or just shop at REI out of convience, you must feel like a horrible dirty person now.

quite terrible, i actually googled who had them, and rei was the only one who showed up. even karst sports who has everything that petzl makes didnt have them, kinda thought rei did the same thing they did with the sierra designs dridown, and bought every single one of the first shipment so they has exclusivity on selling them. didnt even think to call bent gate.

backcountry.com has them

Kilroy well you are in luck! REI has a 100% satisfaction guarantee so you can return anything at anytime....

Do the right thing and return that belay device to REI and then go to BentGate and buy it. Come on man, put your money where your mouth is!

coop wrote:backcountry.com has them

I think buying from a corporation would go against the posters strong ethical values.

dorseyec wrote:Kilroy well you are in luck! REI has a 100% satisfaction guarantee so you can return anything at anytime.... Do the right thing and return that belay device to REI and then go to BentGate and buy it. Come on man, put your money where your mouth is!

So REI can throw it away and you can waste more raw material and energy on a second one just to feel good? What a dumb thing to say...

Phil Lauffen wrote: So REI can throw it away and you can waste more raw material and energy on a second one just to feel good? What a dumb thing to say...

Haha ya Phil, way to take a joke! You sound like a super serious guy and a total bore to hang out with.

I was obviously giving the poster a hard time for his strict ethical values which prevent him from buying stuff at REI.... But thank you for your dumb post phil!

dorseyec wrote: Haha ya Phil, way to take a joke! You sound like a super serious guy and a total bore to hang out with.

I am a bore... once again my sarcasm meter is off.

Its okay, you don't seem too bright.

Ok honestly why does it really matter where I got it from, I hate REI like a lot of people do. Therefore I purchase as little from them as possible. Done deal who the hell are you to judge me for where I buy my gear.

you gotta be tough when you're dumb