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Black Beauty
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.6 from 7 votes
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | KC Baum and Jody Hawkins 10/2/88 |
Page Views: | 852 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Matthew Seymour on Jun 7, 2007 |
Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Start up the black, stained face following a shallow, fractured, and flaring, crack system. There are two bolts near the bottom of the climb. Continue up the face protecting in the occasional slot that appears. Climb up to where the crack seams out. At this point, you stem upwards between the small, right-facing dihedral on the left and the seam on the right. Continue stemming until the dihedral ends and you can reach left to the top of a pillar and mantle to it. Finish with face and fingers to a large ledge with a two bolt anchor.
It is recommended that you move right and climb Acropolis, a beautiful, hand crack that starts at this level on the wall, as a second pitch.
The pro on this climb is interesting, safe, but interesting. I kind of wondered why the bottom, where the climbing wasn't that hard, had bolts, but the middle section, where the pro is more difficult does not.
It is recommended that you move right and climb Acropolis, a beautiful, hand crack that starts at this level on the wall, as a second pitch.
The pro on this climb is interesting, safe, but interesting. I kind of wondered why the bottom, where the climbing wasn't that hard, had bolts, but the middle section, where the pro is more difficult does not.
Location
On Hidden Valley Wall there is a large drainage gully in between Obe Won Canobe and The Never Ending Story. There are several high quality climbs in the gully.
Black Beauty is on the left hand wall of the gully starting on a black, stained face, look for bolts.
Black Beauty is on the left hand wall of the gully starting on a black, stained face, look for bolts.
Photos
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2 Comments