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What is the weak link in a cam?

Original Post
Yair Horowitz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 190

I've spent the morning marking my gear, and took the opportunity to give it all a thorough going-over.

In reviewing the load ratings on my cams I noted that the C4 #6 through #.75 are rated to 14kn, and I grew curious as to the weakest link in a cam, given that it's obviously not the lobes. (For the record, I don't have a 5 or 6, just looked those two up online.)

My guess is that it's the wire, but I'm sure that someone here can enlighten me.

Daryl Allan · · Sierra Vista, AZ · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 1,040

Going to guess here and say it's the cable swag. That or the webbing. Geir, where are you??

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

it totally depends on how you load it. in 'theory' you should load it axially along the cable, but in 'practice' sometimes that isn't purely the case. most (non-alien) structural failures that i have heard/read about involved buckling of the cam lobes, most likely due to off-axis loading that resulted in bending of the lobes.

tradryan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 63

C4's pulled to failure will generally snap at the wire thumb loop. The wire fails, not the webbing. I think lobe buckling is more common on the larger sizes if I remember correctly. Of course this is all past the 14 kN rating.

Matt N · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 415

My $$ is on the QC (or lack thereof) process.

LeeAB Brinckerhoff · · Austin, TX · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 10,288

Many years ago I watched at the BD facility in SLC as they pulled a #3 camelot to failure, the sling broke at something like 4500 lbs

erik kapec · · prescott, az · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 205

I would say for the most accurate answer contacting BD would most likely be your best bet. I have contacted them previously with a similar question and recieved a response pretty quickly.
BD customer Service emails

Bob Dergay · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 101
tradryan wrote:C4's pulled to failure will generally snap at the wire thumb loop. The wire fails, not the webbing. I think lobe buckling is more common on the larger sizes if I remember correctly. Of course this is all past the 14 kN rating.
Yeah- I used to work at CCH and we'd pull apart cams from time to time, the camelots always snapped (eventually, after shit-tons of force) at the thumb loop...
Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 347

I seem to remember smaller cams that were pulled to failure having the axle bend enough so that the lobes torqued and no long pushed perpendicular to the walls, causing it to fail.

Those were pull-tested to failure though.

Yair Horowitz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 190

That's all fascinating info. Does anyone know of published pull-test results on trad gear?

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

What is the weak link in a cam?

The sketchball placing it.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Stich wrote:What is the weak link in a cam? The sketchball placing it.
Bingo! Alternatively, it is the choss that you are placing it in.
daniel arthur · · Auburn,Al · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 35
Stich wrote:What is the weak link in a cam? The sketchball placing it.
+1
David Appelhans · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 410

Answer: the link cam

Yair Horowitz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 190
David Appelhans wrote:Answer: the link cam
Impressive!
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

Link Cams' weakest link is that thin metal between the links as you can plainly see. It tends to fracture when the cam is loaded at an angle, which is how it is usually loaded of course since it's the real world.

Stonyman Killough · · Alabama · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 5,785
tradryan wrote:C4's pulled to failure will generally snap at the wire thumb loop. The wire fails, not the webbing. I think lobe buckling is more common on the larger sizes if I remember correctly. Of course this is all past the 14 kN rating.
+1
nathan mowery · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 55
Stich wrote:Link Cams' weakest link is that thin metal between the links as you can plainly see. It tends to fracture when the cam is loaded at an angle, which is how it is usually loaded of course since it's the real world.
+1
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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