Type: Boulder, 14 ft (4 m)
FA: Phillip Benningfield
Page Views: 10,156 total · 55/month
Shared By: Luke Childers on Jan 2, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is the best line at The Energy Wall. It is steep, powerful, technical, dynamic and beautiful. It's also quite tall. Climb the orange-colored wall right of a pronounced crack located next to a pine tree.

S.D.S. with your hands in a nice in-cut jug. (Per Joseph Crotty: Your feet must be off the slab otherwise your working an easier variant called Con Artist.) Make sure your hands are placed in the correct order before starting out or you are sure to have victory stolen from you.

When ready, aggressively bump up to a small, right hand crimp with a pinky catch then quickly make a long toss (again with your right hand) to a small, sloping, horizontal seam. Move your left foot on to a nice tip-like foot hold located on your starting hold.

Next bring up your left had up into a match and quickly switch feet. Get your left foot in a good back step position and toss up and left into a two finger, pocket-type feature.

Steady yourself for the grand finally and explode upwards (2-3 foot dyno) with your right hand to snag an in-cut jug.

Now that the hard part is over get a shake and finish by pushing on to easier but committing climbing to the finish. Possibly the best problem at The Sisters.

If the sequence is not done in a fairly precise way, it will surely seem much harder. Also a big key to sending this sweet heart is good momentum.

This problem is also much harder if you are short. The taller you are the easier this one will probably feel.

Location Suggest change

Its location is The Energy Wall. It is on the steep, orange-colored wall left of a pronounced crack and pine tree.

Protection Suggest change

None.

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