All Locations > N Carolina > 3. Piedmont Region > Stone Mountain > Stone Mtn S Face

Father Knows Best

Name: Father Knows Best
Rating: 2.3

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R

Routes in Stone Mountain South Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Adrift T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Amtrak T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
	Anchor Rode T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Another Alternative T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Autumn Speaks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Banana Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Between The Ways S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Block Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Blood On The Tracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Captain Crunch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Caveman T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Closer to the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Crystal Lizard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Direct Start to Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Discipline, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Dixie Crystals T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dream On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dream Waves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Electric Boobs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Entrance Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
	Face Value T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
	Fantastic T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Father Knows Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Fleet Feet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Grand Funk Railroad T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Great Arch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Great Brown Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Great White Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hook and Bladder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Impossible Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Last Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Mcgrady's route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Mercury's Lead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	No Alternative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Orange Blossom Special T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
	P.F. Flyers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Pandora's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Peer Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Permission Granite T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Pulpit, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Purple Daze T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Purring, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Pyromania T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Rainy Day Women T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Requiem to a Dream T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Rice Krispies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Rock Island Line (Grand Funk alt. finish), The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
	Saturday Night Live T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Scimitar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Sermon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Storm in a Teacup S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Strawberry Preserves T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Sufficiently Breathless T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
	Taken For Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Teflon Trip T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Toilet Bowl T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	U Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Wahoo Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wet Dreams T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
	White Way Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	WOSL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Yardarm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Zoo Love T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
FA:	Paul Pelot - 1991
Page Views:	2,330 total · 11/month
Shared By:	saxfiend on Mar 12, 2007
Admins:	Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Maybe not the hardest, but likely the most sustained hard friction of the Tree Ledge approach routes; this one pretty much never lets up. One assumes the 5.8 rating in the "Selected Climbs" guidebook is a misprint.

Start at a short diagonal crack (or if you're up for it, make a direct start right of the crack). Follow the crack up and right, then straight up with delicate moves to the top. Can be toproped from the anchors with two ropes.