The 2011 SOUTHWEST Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Dylan, great info. Post that up on the route info page so it doesn't get forgotten. Maybe a comment advising accessing freed from the south might help too.

ozman wrote:Dylan, great info. Post that up on the route info page so it doesn't get forgotten. Maybe a comment advising accessing freed from the south might help too.

I second that. Thanks for posting this Dylan. We went up there on Saturday after and had no issues finding it. Amazing to have ice like this right in town.

Drew McLean wrote: I second that. Thanks for posting this Dylan. We went up there on Saturday after and had no issues finding it. Amazing to have ice like this right in town.

Will do. Good suggestion. Was Freed still in good condition even after all the warm weather we've been having?

I went lead Haflin yesterday and was a little concerned about the waterfall noises coming from behind the ice as well as the body-sized hole the flow had bored out:



ALSO! In the past, how long has the ice park in Ouray lasted? I have some friends who are visting mid March and wanted to take them up there. Anyone from park management have an idea of the average closing date?

The ice park is typically out in mid to late March. Always temp dependent.

As for lower haflin, I'm going to bring some quickcrete up there to divert some of that flow. That'll make the climb wider and stronger with less torrental flow behind the centralized pillar.

hey dylan,
next time you are in ouray talk to a local about dexter creek. by local i mean someone who lives there year round not someone from the east coast that spends 4 months there making money from ice climbing. preferably someone who has been around for 15+ years. and by dexter creek i mean dexter creek, not dexter slabs. then show them this thread, or at least your map and explanation of the situation. ask them what they think about putting this information out on the web like this, and how they think the increased traffic it brings will affect access in the future. you will probably learn something. if you can't find anyone who can explain this to you i can head up there with you and introduce you to the right people. i'll give you a belay up at skylight too if you want. maybe a free place to stay. i don't think i've ever met ********** but i am sure he would be happier if you deleted this as well. thanks for listening,

kevin

edited to remove a name that didn't need to be here

Kevin Connolly wrote:hey dylan, next time you are in ouray talk to a local about dexter creek. by local i mean someone who lives there year round not someone from the east coast that spends 4 months there making money from ice climbing. preferably someone who has been around for 15+ years. and by dexter creek i mean dexter creek, not dexter slabs. then show them this thread, or at least your map and explanation of the situation. ask them what they think about putting this information out on the web like this, and how they think the increased traffic it brings will affect access in the future. you will probably learn something. if you can't find anyone who can explain this to you i can head up there with you and introduce you to the right people. i'll give you a belay up at skylight too if you want. maybe a free place to stay. i don't think i've ever met mark williamson but i am sure he would be happier if you deleted this as well. thanks for listening, kevin

-I appreciate your comments Kevin. The information has been removed. My apologies. On another note, skylight looks awesome! I've just been waiting for the snowpack to settle...

right on, trespassing is pretty common in ice climbing, done a bit myself so can't tell anyone else not to. sometimes you can get away with it for years but when the crowds show up it always ends badly. glad you understand. as for snowpack, it never really settles. educate yourself a bit, be really conservative and you probably won't die.

Kevin Connolly wrote: as for snowpack, it never really settles. educate yourself a bit, be really conservative and you probably won't die.

Ed LaChapelle told me that it takes about 200 inches (not base) of snow before the snow pack starts to consolidated and settle. And for every 100 inches of snow equals about 1 inch of glacial/alpine ice that doesn’t melt in the summer.

Anyone have current condition report for Ames Ice Hose? Thinking of heading down that way but would want ice on the 1st pitch; thanks.

As of Wednesday it was good to go on first pitch. Thin hooked out climbing.

Tom Willard wrote:Anyone have current condition report for Ames Ice Hose? Thinking of heading down that way but would want ice on the 1st pitch; thanks.

Hey Tom - I climbed the first pitch around New Years and it was real good!

Thanks so much for the Ames condition update!

Cascade Canyon in Durango is still in and fat. Plastic ice and for the first time ever the overhanging curtain above the second mixed line to the left of the main flow has touched down to form a beautiful WI5 pillar.... Highs in the mid 50's every day this week will surely be its demise, however