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Routes in Gargoyle Wall
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A Million Ways to Die S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Aerial Combat S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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August Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Beehive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Chimera S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Cholla Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Dr. Demento S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fresh Air Traverse T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13 |
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Hard Times S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Hart Route S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Misgivings T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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North Central Variation to the Hart Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Pedrick's Chimney S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Pockets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown/lauren and caleb lichtenberger and don robinson |
| Page Views: | 9,208 total · 61/month |
| Shared By: | clichtenberger Lichtenberger on Dec 8, 2011 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
This route features excellent climbing but it is still camelback rock. Expect sparse protection on easier climbing and expect some falling rocks and plan accordingly.
3rd class scramble up granite ramp and belay.
P1- Start is just right of alternate Hart Route Gully. The first bolt is shared with the Cholla traverse. It is possible to place a .4 or .5 camalot before clipping the first bolt. The entire pitch is approximately 110' with 9bolts to two bolt belay on small ledge.
P2- 130' with 10bolts to a double bolt belay on large ledge. The final double bolt belay of the Hart route is visible from this belay.
Descent- 4th class and follow climbers trail to 100' Rappel down Pedrick's Chimney.
3rd class scramble up granite ramp and belay.
P1- Start is just right of alternate Hart Route Gully. The first bolt is shared with the Cholla traverse. It is possible to place a .4 or .5 camalot before clipping the first bolt. The entire pitch is approximately 110' with 9bolts to two bolt belay on small ledge.
P2- 130' with 10bolts to a double bolt belay on large ledge. The final double bolt belay of the Hart route is visible from this belay.
Descent- 4th class and follow climbers trail to 100' Rappel down Pedrick's Chimney.
Location
Chimera is a gargoyle comprised of two or more different beasts. The first pitch has remained on the wall unnoticed by any of the previous guides. After climbing it for 8 years or more the second pitch was added as a fun alternate finish. All the original bolts (1.5inch drop ins with .75 inch bolts) have been replaced with solid anchors. The first pitch is located just right of the alternate Hart route climb. This is distinguished as the large low angle gully that splits the gargoyle wall. The line of bolts are visible from the base of the wall.
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