Building an anchor with climbing rope
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I've found lots of references about building an anchor with your climbing rope on here (20 pages of search results on MP), but I haven't seen an explanation and picture (I'm visual). |
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Will, I think for you it would be "YAARRR GONNA DIE" |
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Ahoy ahoy, I think you're right Matt! How was J-Tree? |
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I like the self-equalizing figure eight knot. |
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Some examples. |
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BirminghamBen wrote:Some examples.In your first example, if you put the ATC biner on one of the bights instead of the linking biner, you will move the tri-axial loading off of the linking biner and onto the rope. The rope is better suited to take such load configurations. |
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I use the rope for anchors all the time. I see lots of questionable anchors here in this post. Later today I will post a simple (tried and true) rope anchor system for you. |
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Picture #2 and picture #4 in BirminghamBen's post look sketchy as hell to me. I can't even tell what's going on in #2, and everything is far too close together in #4 (in addition to not really being equalized). |
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ya those pics are shit, there are better ways to do all of them except # 2 because who knows what the hells going on there. it may be a joke though, hopefully he knows it. |
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Buy a book (Craig Lubben). Find some rope. Find some cracks (on the ground). Build anchors. Pull the shit outta them and try to make them fail. See what happens. Scientific Investigation. |
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i found this video by Eli Helmuth very helpful. and hopefully what you are looking for |
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Peter Franzen wrote:Picture #2 and picture #4 in BirminghamBen's post look sketchy as hell to me. I can't even tell what's going on in #2, and everything is far too close together in #4 (in addition to not really being equalized).The only problem with #4 is that the quickdraw is unnecessary. Everything else is in that setup is fine. |
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#1 places load on the gate of the biner. extending the knots further from the tree would relieve that |
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JSH wrote:#4 above is three pieces in a row. That's not synonymous with an anchor, at least in my mind. Some kind of equalization of load would be a good start.I believe I've seen that exact setup in the Luebben book. The pieces are tensioned with the cloves, so that they are sharing the load to some degree. |
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Greg-Az wrote:I like the self-equalizing figure eight knot. The pros; it equalized pieces, bomber simple rigging, built in safty and the ability to extend the anchor much further and easier than using slings and cordelettes.Pretty sure it has been proven via testing that the friction in the knot pretty much kills any hopes of equalization. |
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+1. This was the video I was going to refer you to. Great resource. RNclimber wrote:http://climbinglife.com/rock-anchoring-systems-videos-advanced/building-a-multi-piece-anchor-using-the-climbing-rope-3-57.html |
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JSH wrote:#4 above is three pieces in a row. That's not synonymous with an anchor, at least in my mind. Some kind of equalization of load would be a good start...Nothing wrong with rigging stuff in series. No anchors really equalize anyway. I'm surprised nobody's posted this one yet: Classic! |
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Classic photo but the interwebz told me there is a bolt just out of frame. Anyone know if that is the verified truth? |
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The method in that video looks like a good start for some garage tinker time later tonight. Not sure what I think of the setups in the pics, except that awesome rig in picture 2, ;) |
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Yarp wrote:Classic photo but the interwebz told me there is a bolt just out of frame. Anyone know if that is the verified truth?I heard that too, unverified though... (edit: it has been verified that there is currently a bolt there, but unverified that it was there at the time this photo was taken) |