How old before you get crusty?

I'm trying to figure out where most climbers peak or start to decline in performance solely based on age. I know there are probably too many variables to get an accurate picture but maybe it will give me an idea. I'm 34 been climbing since I was 30 and want to know how many more years I can keep pushing. If I keep in shape and eat healthy how long until I have to be happy taking new climbers up easy moderates?

You're right...there are too many variables. Mileage will vary greatly based on the individual.

David Sahalie wrote:i've been climbing since I was 18 and did my hardest redpoint at 40, doing harder things now at 41.

Nice David, that's what I'm hoping for!

Look up "Lee Sheftel"

Unless you're a genetic freak I would say that the biggest variable in the longevity of pushing your physical limits comes down to how well you take care of the body.
Supplemental training, weight lifting, yoga, pilates... whatever, may not help you climb harder but it will keep the asymmetries and imbalances that you accumulate over years of climbing from becoming actual injuries that will keep you from training and pulling hard.

Also a foam roller and a Lax Ball are awesome self massage tools if you don't want to throw down for some professional body work.

Just my 2cents. I have to agree w/ Larry, some of the crustiest climbers I've run across aren't the oldest.
happy climbing,
BA

thecornyman wrote:I'm trying to figure out where most climbers peak or start to decline in performance solely based on age. I know there are probably too many variables to get an accurate picture but maybe it will give me an idea. I'm 34 been climbing since I was 30 and want to know how many more years I can keep pushing. If I keep in shape and eat healthy how long until I have to be happy taking new climbers up easy moderates?

I consider myself crusty in attitude, but not in fitness. I'm 33 right now, been climbing for 13 years, and while I'm not as purely "strong" as I was at 25, I'm climbing the best I ever have, and intend to keep trying to improve. Whenever I think that my best climbing days might be behind me, I think of the 8a.nu profile description that a certain Utah climber has: "Red-pointed my first 5.12 at age 34, 5.13 at age 37 and 5.14 at age 44." Word.

If you go to John Gill's website ( www128.pair.com/r3d4k7/Seni… ), you will see interviews with several active climbers in the 70 year old range. To quote Gill: "Climbers in their 50s and early 60s are veteran, not senior athletes - mere youths!"

I have been climbing since I was 8 and did my hardest sport, trad, and boulder problems this year. I am 34. I will get stronger.

I've been climbing since I was 14, and I'm still pushing harder and bolder every year. I'm 31 now.

I will say that recovery days are noticeably tougher though-- hanging in a harness all day used to be no big deal, but my back feels it the next morning now.

Well I'm on the far end of the crust at 57. I started climbing at 14. I feel there was no difference between my 30's and 40's except that I had alot more tricks from more experience the older I got. When I turned 50 I stil didn't see any decline, but now at 57 I am starting to see a decline in motivation sometimes but given the psych I can usually still get up what I want to get up. But sometimes it just doesn't seem as important as it used to.

Yeah - I'm just like David S. hardest climbs (number-wise) at 40 now climbing harder at 41. Just finding it difficult to get a lot of time on the rock between work and family.

thecornyman wrote: how long until I have to be happy taking new climbers up easy moderates?

You'll become a true crusty..when you no longer are happy to take new climbers anywhere, even though you will still have the skills, stamina, etc : D

Turned 60 4 months ago. Been climbing since I was in my mid teens. Certainly the last couple of years things are taking on a different tenor. Some of the most rewarding climbs of my time climbing have been in the last 5 years. At your age it isn't even relevant, sorry ;-).

As an aside I'm guessing the women you climb with will let you know when you turn crusty, HA!

I've been climbing since I was 13....I'm almost 29 now and pulling harder than ever (albeit with a bit more tendonitis). Technique technique technique....that's what makes you climb better. Look forward to climbing harder!

Fred Nicole kicks ass...
I started climbing at 20 and now i'm 29, i noticed a slower recovery and thats all. sometimes i think the same thoughts but for now i think it depends on my prioritys as to how fast i progress.

(ya ya i'm not 50, i know its gets harder) :)

thecornyman wrote:I'm trying to figure out where most climbers peak or start to decline in performance solely based on age. I know there are probably too many variables to get an accurate picture but maybe it will give me an idea. I'm 34 been climbing since I was 30 and want to know how many more years I can keep pushing. If I keep in shape and eat healthy how long until I have to be happy taking new climbers up easy moderates?

I'm 70 and my climbing continues to improve. Good diet, exercise, and not starting until I was 64 is my secret. You started waaaaayyy too young, so you'll be declining long before you're my age. How's that for a different perspective?

Crusty is attitude, not years. At some point though, it's the mileage that gets you. If your attitude is good, you just keep going 'cause you love it!

I started climbing at 36 and at 49 established 5.12c, and was knocking on 5.13's door. I'm now 65, and I sent a 5.12a at 63, as stated above diet, and fitness level is everything, stretching,good rest and recovery times and timing your workout/climbing/rest cycle's are the crux. I have observed that a lot of climbers who were younger than me have dropped out, just an observation.

Its a function of accumulated injuries, in my opinion. I peaked at sport climbing when I was 30. Other stuff later.

Ask Fred Becky. . . .