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Routes in East Face
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Beast of Burden S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bird Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Blue Velvet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Captain Fingers T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Crushed Velvet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dominion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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East Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Eastern Bloc S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Falcon, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Fang-Left Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Farley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fracture, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gallows Pole (direct) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Grand Illusion T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Harding's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Lady Luck T R |
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Lurch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Mini Illusion, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Monkey Flower T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Morticia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Opus 7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Over the Edge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Pinch a Loaf S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Scheister T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Summit Bolt Ladder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Stone direct aka Paul Bunion T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Swallows Tale T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Talking Heads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Tapestry T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Taurus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Telesis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Wanker, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 105 ft (32 m) |
| FA: | FFA Mark Hudon and Max Jones, 1979 |
| Page Views: | 4,084 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Luke Stefurak on Sep 13, 2010 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Captian Fingers follows a slabby finger crack up to the beautiful overhanging head wall. The crux is a very thin right leaning crack the splits the lichen covered face.
Climb up the finger crack, 5.10, following it right as it becomes a series of flakes and then pinches out. Do a few tricky moves 5.10+, clip a pin, and get established at the no hands stance below the crux. Place some gear, crimp hard, and try to stick the sequence to the midway rest.
Recover as best you can for a final section of strenuous under-clinging/laybacking until confronted with a final sequence of face holds. Pull over the lip, shout with victory and relax since you didn't whip onto any of the brass nuts that protect the route!
Climb up the finger crack, 5.10, following it right as it becomes a series of flakes and then pinches out. Do a few tricky moves 5.10+, clip a pin, and get established at the no hands stance below the crux. Place some gear, crimp hard, and try to stick the sequence to the midway rest.
Recover as best you can for a final section of strenuous under-clinging/laybacking until confronted with a final sequence of face holds. Pull over the lip, shout with victory and relax since you didn't whip onto any of the brass nuts that protect the route!
Location
This climb is located to the right of Dominion (which can be climbed to setup a TR). There are are two bolts that can be used for an anchor. Long sings are useful to extend the anchor over the lip. There is a separate rappel station on the same ledge 10 feet to the right. A 70m rope is best for rappeling.
Protection
The bottom section takes a variety of cams up to .75 camalot. A double set from .5" to 2" is sufficient. The 30 foot crux section takes good gear but it is very strenuous to place. Brass nuts (RP's) and offsets (HB) are suggested in addition to a .5 camalot and one or two very small cams (Black Alien).
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