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Routes in Casket Quarry (ICE/MIXED)
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A) The Alpine Route WI3 |
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B) Crescent S M8- |
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C) Turkey Chute S M8 |
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D) Bare Hug S M8+ |
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DD) Open Casket S M7+ |
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E) Deer Bait S M7- |
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EE) Cat Bait S M8 |
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F) Cat's Paw S M7-8 |
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G) Crocodile Tiers S M6-7 |
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H) Strike Three S,TR M6 |
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I) The Chimney S,TR WI5 M5 |
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J) Shaken, Not Stirred S M8+ |
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K) Extra Dry Vermouth S M9- |
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L) Martini S M6-7 |
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Ledaig'er TR M8 |
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N) -unfinished- S M7 |
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NN) Off-road S M7 |
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O) Reefer Madness S M7+ |
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P) Blind Faith S M6+ |
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Q) Big Blue - ICE WI4-5 |
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R) Big Blue: LEFT Mixed Finish S M6+ |
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S) Big Blue: CENTER Mixed Finish S M6 |
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T) Big Blue: RIGHT Mixed Finish S M5-6 |
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U) Turning To Stone S M7 |
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UU) Drop Off S M8 |
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V) Thin and Bear It S,TR M6 |
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VV) unknown S,TR M6 |
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VVV) unknown 2 TR M6- |
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W) Off-Ramp S M6-7 |
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X) The Ramp WI3 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, Mixed, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Mike Dahlberg |
| Page Views: | 2,250 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | James Loveridge on Jan 28, 2008 |
| Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
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Location
The climb is located about 20 feet right of The Chimney. Look for the martini glass shaped hanging flake about mid cliff.
Description
Start on the face just left of a left trending broken feature. Establish yourself on the top of the broken feature and delicately climb up face to the base of the hanging martini glass flake. Go directly right and follow cracks under the right side of the flake to the crux headwall overlap. Depending on ice conditions -Dry: pull headwall using tiny one toothers in vertical seam or- Ice: climb dribbles delicately. From no-hands stance on top of the martini glass, trend right on chossy flakes to the upper alcove below ice. Pull through alcove onto ice and climb ice to anchors where the ice ends.
Protection
9 Bolts. NOTE: It is HIGHLY recommended that you clip the first 4 bolts with regular Quickdraws and the next 4 with shoulder length (24 runners). A screw for the upper ice might be useful if the bolt above the alcove is covered in ice and hasnt been chopped out (If you see an obvious hole in the ice about 8 feet below the top of ice, its been hacked out).
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