Mountain Project Logo

Best "First 13" in Front Range

Original Post
climber73 · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 185

I'm working my way back into sport climbing 12s and want to set a long term goal / project 13. I'm interested in a quality route that would be a good first 13 as well as any routes to tick in the 12s on the path to sending the 13.

Any input is appreciated... Front Range area preferred as this will make it easier to get to the project more consistently from Ft Collins. Thanks.

Doug Lintz · · Kearney, NE · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 1,196

Way out of my league but Milk Bone and Ultrasaurus on Dinosaur Rock are supposedly top notch. One of my friends worked Ultrasaurus last year and said it was really good.

Rob Kepley · · Westminster, CO · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,005

Check out Vasodilator at Blob Rock. Closed now but will reopen springtime.

Buster Jesik · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 501
Magic Dagger is a good one. Its basically a 5.11 to a rest, then a V6, maybe 7 boulder problem to another rest. Fixed draws and nice and cool in the summer.
Elijah Flenner · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 820

Check up Upper Echelon in the Triple Tier area up the Poudre Canyon. Great routes in the 12 range, and ticking them will get you ready for 13. There is also a 13b there that is supposed to be pretty good. There are some good 12's at The Palace, but The Palace routes are hit and miss. Rapid Fire is a good 12c/d. There is also a route rated 13- that I want to check out when it warms up a little. You can send me a PM and let me know if you are interested in joining me.

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

Hey JLP,

Why you gotta be so damn negative...
For instance, I have redpointed 5.13 but you don't
see that on my ticklist.

By the way, climber73 says he/she is on a long term goal.
Nothing wrong with that! Hopefully you send your project,
so JLP has something to look at.

I thought the Rainbow Wall in Eldo was cool.
You just have to take some trad gear for the start.

Cheers,
Cory

Rob Eison · · Denver, CO · Joined Sep 2003 · Points: 230

I second Upper echelon in the Poudre. The 4 5.12's up there are some of the best in the front range and if you can do the 12d Dreams of Poudre you're well on your way to 13a because it's stout. The 13b however is quite a step up and I wouldn't choose it for a project.

Also hit the Slab in the Flatirons. The Undertow is one of the best 12b's anywhere. After working through the many low 12's there you can project $00pr Kr33m which is a slightly easier 13a compared to $00kr33m.

Milk bone or Ultrasaurus at Dinosaur Rock also are good choices especially if your endurance is good. Couple of 5.12's adjacent as well.

If it's not too far, Clear Creek gives you lots of options. Even this time of year you could hit the Highlander crag, do the 12b Peer Review, and then your set up to do the 13a extension Peer 42 which isn't that much harder, just long. Or do Sucking My Will to Live at Primo, Anarchitect, then Sonic Youth at New River Wall, (the best 13a in the front range in my opinion.)

Good Luck

Todd Ritter · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 86

Boulder Canyon has a high concentration of routes to work toward 13a (nevermind the all-over-the-place grades). Give the Dog a Bone is a great route that won't begin too many debates whether it is really a "13". Safe, clean falls (I know!) and a beautiful route. The start makes for a decent warm-up as there are few other routes nearby to warm-up on. Joy Ride is a great 12a/b next door.

Jason Haas · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 1,582
Rob Kepley wrote:Check out Vasodilator at Blob Rock. Closed now but will reopen springtime.
+1
climber73 · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 185

Thanks for input everyone. I really appreciate each of you taking out some time to help me out. My tick's listed in my profile don't include the 5 5.12's on 5/12 last year...in the gym because I was paranoid to climb outside & get hurt prior to my fist 1/2 ironman. I think a 13 for a long term goal is not a bad thing & hopefully I can send a ton of 12's on the way.

I'll be hitting upper echelon as soon as weather allows.

Jon Lachelt · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 0

I was going to suggest something at The Monastery... I don't see a "first 13" there, but lots of good upper twelves to hit on your way there. And who knows. You might get on a roll and pull off one of the 13cs.

Good luck!

Hank Caylor · · Livin' in the Junk! · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 643

Buddah Belly, way good with plenty of warmups right there.

climber73 · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 185

Oh yeah... Psychatomic is supposed to be great at the Monestary. Need to get up there on a more regular basis this year. It's time to slam dunk Crack a Smile and move forward.

Rob Eison · · Denver, CO · Joined Sep 2003 · Points: 230

In CCC other good 13a's are Peer 42 on the Highlander crag and finger prince at the Wall of Justice. Problem Child at Primo is not bad either, though interrupted by a ledge and with some painful crimping.

Aaron Martinuzzi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 1,485
climber73 wrote:Thanks for input everyone. I really appreciate each of you taking out some time to help me out. My tick's listed in my profile don't include the 5 5.12's on 5/12 last year...in the gym because I was paranoid to climb outside & get hurt prior to my fist 1/2 ironman. I think a 13 for a long term goal is not a bad thing & hopefully I can send a ton of 12's on the way. I'll be hitting upper echelon as soon as weather allows.
Have you been to the upper echelon yet? If not, I can definitely vouch for its quality. Fairly steep, too, and pretty local to Fort Collins, so a good place to get strong, I imagine. Also within striking distance are Tour de Poudre and Orange Crimpsicle at the Crystal Wall. Tour is on the easier side of the 12 spectrum, for sure, but very excellent, and orange crimpsicle Is a beautiful line.

It's likely you'll find a higher quality 13 in the flatirons or the monastery. Don't forget about the crystal wall, though, on your way to 5.13; it's an often neglected crag, in my opinion.
Rob Eison · · Denver, CO · Joined Sep 2003 · Points: 230

2 more points: will be awhile before magic dagger up at wizard's gate is climbable. That's a summer crag and conditions can be pretty variable. Definitely wouldn't want to do that approach in the snow.

Vasodilator also has a midpoint jug block that's supposedly close to blowing. I don't know if people decided what to do about it but I'd wait and get more local info before hitting that when it opens back up this spring.

Rob Eison · · Denver, CO · Joined Sep 2003 · Points: 230

Good to know. It's been a few years for me but I know the one you're talking about. I wasn't too worried about it back then either. There was some talk this fall about prying it off and lowering it down, but maybe it's not that big a deal...

Matt Saunders · · boulder, co · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0

I'd like to add Lucid Dreaming in Boulder Canyon. 12d(ish) If you have less endurance/are a boulderer, this is a great route, and super beautiful arete also.

Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669
Mike McKinnon wrote:What about in CCC? Sonic Youth, Anarchitect (although 12d), Black & Tan, What are some other good 13as in CCC to gnash my teeth on?
ok, i will bite.. but first of all, Black and Tan is certainly harder than 13a right now, and not one to cut your teeth on IMO..

while we are on the topic of CCC, and to echo others, some good first 13s:

Sonic Youth (many folks "first")
Crying Flyboys (short and clever but feels like its longer)
Stuffed Wolf (legit 13b. a few hard 12 cruxes, sustained, though involved to get to, scrappy warm up on Mouse Meat)

and while you're on the road, I would have to recommend these harder and classic 12's:
Anarchitect
Twitch
Gauntlet
Head Up Dirty
Sucking My Will to Live
100 Proof to Macho Borracho
MorganH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 197
johnL wrote:Lucid dreaming is no harder than 12c and if you want to split hairs I'd call it b before d. Darren, wtf is wrong with me. I've tried anarchitect several times over several years un different conditions and fitness levels. I can't even pull half the moves. Stuffed Wolf or hell, even something like Cloak and Dagger in estes seem more likely for me.
Lucid Dreaming is sort of soft, but that doesn't take away from the quality. Strangely, Anarchitect took me less tries. Sonic Youth is also quite soft, probably no harder than 12c.

I remember thinking this was one of the best on the front range when I was living out there:

psychatomic

Although also pretty soft. Actually, now that I think about it, are any of the 12s/13- in the greater boulder area not soft?

It was pretty depressing when I first got back out to Seattle and my onsight level dropped by a full number grade.
Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669
johnL wrote:Darren, wtf is wrong with me. I've tried anarchitect several times over several years un different conditions and fitness levels. I can't even pull half the moves. Stuffed Wolf or hell, even something like Cloak and Dagger in estes seem more likely for me.
definitely difficult low percentage beta... i might not remember exactly how i have done it.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
Post a Reply to "Best "First 13" in Front Range"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.