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Wild Country Helium vs. Petzl Ange (because Camp Nano 23 sucks)

mugsy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 0
Bowens wrote: My experience mirrors yours regarding the Nano and the Phantom. I'm curious, however, why you are looking for something else. Are you not satisfied with the Phantoms for Alpine Draws as well?
Phantoms are great, but I went with some of the orange/silver Petzl Ange S biners for trad draws. They are light, strong, and have the great keylock nose/monofil gate system that prevents them from rubbing against rock and coming open or catching on my large diameter Metolius Safetech gear loops. So far I have been very happy with them.
The new DMM Alpha Light carabiners are finally up on their website (color coded ones even)... They look sweeeet!
Matt G · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 85

Yeah, I've been looking for a clean-nosed wiregate for a long time to replace my rack of DMM Prowires. I've bought a couple each of Ange S, Heliums, and Alpha Trads.

I don't like the Ange S for a couple of reasons. First, the monowire makes it a bit more unstable when opening since you only have two points of contact, as opposed to normal wiregates where the two wires of gate essentially create three points of contact. Second, the "bulb" on the end of the wire tends to catch the rope when clipping it in, requiring an extra little tug to get it in the biner. Both are things you can get over but are still niggling things you need to be careful of while making sketchy clips.

The only difference between the Helium and Alpha Trad is a bent or straight spine. Not sure yet which I prefer.

Does anyone know how the Alpha Light will compare to the Alpha Trad? I can see the pictures, and I assume the only difference is size. The Light is probably more like the Phantom in size. Can anyone confirm this? Does anyone know if gate size and opening will be different on the Lights, vs. the Trads? The Lights are still unavailable as far as I can tell... Thanks.

Worth Russell · · Rosendale, NY · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 40

I went with the nitros on 5 new alpine draws. I love them but my buddy just got the ange s biners and I have biner envy. Those biners are light, they are recessed to prevent snags and They look awesome. I have 5 more draws to replace and you can be sure they will be ange s

Kevin Landolt · · Fort Collins, Wyoming · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 585

I love my camp Nano 23s. I use them on all my extendable draws on one end / larger (though still very light) Trango biners on the other end for clipping. I've heard of the gates wearing out and not closing well after a lot of use, though I've yet to see this occur, even on my oldest 23s. What's all the hate about?

DannyUncanny · · Vancouver · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 100
Kevin Landolt wrote:I love my camp Nano 23s. I use them on all my extendable draws on one end / larger (though still very light) Trango biners on the other end for clipping. I've heard of the gates wearing out and not closing well after a lot of use, though I've yet to see this occur, even on my oldest 23s. What's all the hate about?
I have at least two different models of Nano 23. The newer ones have raised lettering, the gate opens at a bit of an angle, and seem to be better put together. The older ones have a blunt nose and indented lettering and I find the gates have gotten a bit loose such that if I push on it from the side, it will run into the nose.
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Kevin Landolt wrote:I love my camp Nano 23s. What's all the hate about?
them deadly notches will kill you didnt you know that ;)

as to biner envy ... dont worry about it ... the nitros will do anything a $$$$ biner you will use a wiregate for just as well (for overhang sports, most weenies use big beefy biners with big beefy dogbones they can grab anyways) ... worry about how much it costs and performs, not how it looks, it wont stay nice and shiny for too long if yr climbing alot anyways
Matt G · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 85
coldfinger wrote:No idea on when the Alpha light will be here but I'd call Lisa & Steve at Excalibur in SLC, they'll know and should be able to ship direct.
Took your advice. Alpha Light should be in around summer, like June or July. Just like the Trad, but comparable in size to a Phantom.

I'm holding out until then, ordering a couple, and playing with clipping them from all angles, into stuff, handling, w/ and w/o gloves. Comparing directly to the Alpha Trad, Heliums, and Ange S's. Then I'll post a detailed review and replace my rack of Prowires with the winner :)
wankel7 · · Indiana · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 10

Mammut Moses biners ...27 grams.

mammut.ch/en/productDetail/…

Forrest L. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 10

What happened to the trad lights being released, anyone know?

Khoi · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 45
Forrest L. wrote:What happened to the trad lights being released, anyone know?
I suspect that we haven't seen them yet due to production delays on DMM's end.
Jared Garfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 5

I've got nothing but good things to say about the Anges, I originally bought them for making alpine draws and they work great, super light, and very easy to clip. After using them for a while I started buying the small size to put on all my cams and I still have no complaints, I think they are one of the best on the market and I couldn't recommend them more. that being said I haven't used the Helium at all so they could be as good, but I do like the gates on the Ange better then the tradition wire gates.

coppolillo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 70

Helium, strong as hell, well made, EASY to clip with gloves, light, gorgeous....i'm sure the petzl ones are fine....i'd say go with whatever gives you the warm/fuzzy....

DannyUncanny · · Vancouver · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 100

One more vote for the Ange L. It just feels ver well put together and smooth. I also like the newest version of Nanos with the raised lettering, but not the older one with the loose gates. I've also tried the DMM Shield and was not a fan.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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