Wild Country Helium vs. Petzl Ange (because Camp Nano 23 sucks)
|
Bowens wrote: My experience mirrors yours regarding the Nano and the Phantom. I'm curious, however, why you are looking for something else. Are you not satisfied with the Phantoms for Alpine Draws as well?Phantoms are great, but I went with some of the orange/silver Petzl Ange S biners for trad draws. They are light, strong, and have the great keylock nose/monofil gate system that prevents them from rubbing against rock and coming open or catching on my large diameter Metolius Safetech gear loops. So far I have been very happy with them. The new DMM Alpha Light carabiners are finally up on their website (color coded ones even)... They look sweeeet! |
|
Yeah, I've been looking for a clean-nosed wiregate for a long time to replace my rack of DMM Prowires. I've bought a couple each of Ange S, Heliums, and Alpha Trads. |
|
I went with the nitros on 5 new alpine draws. I love them but my buddy just got the ange s biners and I have biner envy. Those biners are light, they are recessed to prevent snags and They look awesome. I have 5 more draws to replace and you can be sure they will be ange s |
|
I love my camp Nano 23s. I use them on all my extendable draws on one end / larger (though still very light) Trango biners on the other end for clipping. I've heard of the gates wearing out and not closing well after a lot of use, though I've yet to see this occur, even on my oldest 23s. What's all the hate about? |
|
Kevin Landolt wrote:I love my camp Nano 23s. I use them on all my extendable draws on one end / larger (though still very light) Trango biners on the other end for clipping. I've heard of the gates wearing out and not closing well after a lot of use, though I've yet to see this occur, even on my oldest 23s. What's all the hate about?I have at least two different models of Nano 23. The newer ones have raised lettering, the gate opens at a bit of an angle, and seem to be better put together. The older ones have a blunt nose and indented lettering and I find the gates have gotten a bit loose such that if I push on it from the side, it will run into the nose. |
|
Kevin Landolt wrote:I love my camp Nano 23s. What's all the hate about?them deadly notches will kill you didnt you know that ;) as to biner envy ... dont worry about it ... the nitros will do anything a $$$$ biner you will use a wiregate for just as well (for overhang sports, most weenies use big beefy biners with big beefy dogbones they can grab anyways) ... worry about how much it costs and performs, not how it looks, it wont stay nice and shiny for too long if yr climbing alot anyways |
|
coldfinger wrote:No idea on when the Alpha light will be here but I'd call Lisa & Steve at Excalibur in SLC, they'll know and should be able to ship direct.Took your advice. Alpha Light should be in around summer, like June or July. Just like the Trad, but comparable in size to a Phantom. I'm holding out until then, ordering a couple, and playing with clipping them from all angles, into stuff, handling, w/ and w/o gloves. Comparing directly to the Alpha Trad, Heliums, and Ange S's. Then I'll post a detailed review and replace my rack of Prowires with the winner :) |
|
Mammut Moses biners ...27 grams. |
|
What happened to the trad lights being released, anyone know? |
|
Forrest L. wrote:What happened to the trad lights being released, anyone know?I suspect that we haven't seen them yet due to production delays on DMM's end. |
|
I've got nothing but good things to say about the Anges, I originally bought them for making alpine draws and they work great, super light, and very easy to clip. After using them for a while I started buying the small size to put on all my cams and I still have no complaints, I think they are one of the best on the market and I couldn't recommend them more. that being said I haven't used the Helium at all so they could be as good, but I do like the gates on the Ange better then the tradition wire gates. |
|
Helium, strong as hell, well made, EASY to clip with gloves, light, gorgeous....i'm sure the petzl ones are fine....i'd say go with whatever gives you the warm/fuzzy.... |
|
One more vote for the Ange L. It just feels ver well put together and smooth. I also like the newest version of Nanos with the raised lettering, but not the older one with the loose gates. I've also tried the DMM Shield and was not a fan. |