tying in to the sharp end
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I've been climbing for many years now. And have seen many knots that you can tie in with. What is everyone knot of choice? Is it different on top rope sport,trad. top rope ice lead ice? The best knot out there is the trusted figure eight follow through. but my knot of choice is the bowline on a bight with the Yosemite finish and a tuck. but I've seen some crazy knots out there. Like the trident. thoughts? |
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The fancier the knot, the more likely somebody is to fuck it up (dark, tired, blizzard etc.). |
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charlie c wrote:I've been climbing for many years now. And have seen many knots that you can tie in with. What is everyone knot of choice? Is it different on top rope sport,trad. top rope ice lead ice? The best knot out there is the trusted figure eight follow through. but my knot of choice is the bowline on a bight with the Yosemite finish and a tuck. but I've seen some crazy knots out there. Like the trident. thoughts?Link #1 Link #2 Link #3 |
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coldfinger wrote:...Usually if I see some fancy tie in knot I'm not too thrilled as it can be a sign that the particular climber has a thing for doing things differently for no other reason than to be different and not just to be as safe as possible. The ONLY place for a bowline as a tie in knot is when one is tying in without a harness, i.e. directly to the rope. It works VERY well for that.Generally considered a very bad idea in the context of technical rock climbing. |
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Sport routes where I'm likely to take some falls: Yosemite Bowline. |
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bowline on a bight? really? with a locker?? seems stupid |
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S Denny wrote:bowline on a bight? really? with a locker?? seems stupidAs -sp will likely tell you, when used as a tie in, it's a rethreaded bowline. Seems like extra time and effort for little advantage, but as has been said before, it's purportedly as quick to tie as a double bowline... |
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When sport climbing, I use a bowline since it doesn't tighten up with the repeated falls I take while working a project. For "trad" climbs, I use an 8 knot. |
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I never tie in to the sharp end. |
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I use a standard fig 8 for every thing. |
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Single bowline for almost everything. Learned to tie the bowline my first day of climbing. Not much fun to fall or lower to the ground with a single goldline rope looped around your waist. Back in the day before we all checked each other every 5 minutes (Which is good) I failed to finish it with half a fishermans knot (safety knot) and realized it just before the swing over to the stovelegs. Did it one other time as well. When I do long routes I use a figure 8. But for shorter routes I swear by the BOWLINE. I take so many whippers I need a knot that unties easily. I once calculated that I get three routes more per month because I don't spend 5 minutes trying to untie my FIGURE 8. Seriously I timed them. No I didn't! |
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Here is my experience. You may have seen something different but remember, I'm right and if you disagree with me, you're wrong. Bowline, British and Scottish climbers. Exclusively. |
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I like to tie in with 12 pound test fishing line with a square knot. Although not safe, this allows all my climbing to feel more adventurous. |
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Knot Strength |
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Dave77 wrote:Knot Strength NO Knot 100% Double Fisherman's 65-70% Bowline 70-75% Water Knot 60-70% Figure 8 75-80% Clove Hitch 60-65% Fisherman's 60-65% Overhand 60-65% remaining strength of a rope with these knots tied.Which proves that it is best to tie in with no knot. |
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-sp wrote: Generally considered a very bad idea in the context of technical rock climbing.Which is how we always tied in before we had harnesses (and belay devices)!!! Personally these days I like the trident loop. |
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I tie an overhand loop and then clip into my Swiss seat with a single non-locking oval. :-) |
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"Which is how we always tied in before we had harnesses (and belay devices)!!!"
100% true, but it's still a very bad idea. There is a suffocation risk in an unsupported hanging situation, which is why it's no longer recommended. |
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Just read this and remembered this thread. |
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1Eric Rhicard wrote:Single bowline for almost everything. Learned to tie the bowline my first day of climbing. Not much fun to fall or lower to the ground with a single goldline rope looped around your waist. Back in the day before we all checked each other every 5 minutes (Which is good) I failed to finish it with half a fishermans knot (safety knot) and realized it just before the swing over to the stovelegs. Did it one other time as well. When I do long routes I use a figure 8. But for shorter routes I swear by the BOWLINE. I take so many whippers I need a knot that unties easily. I once calculated that I get three routes more per month because I don't spend 5 minutes trying to untie my FIGURE 8. Seriously I timed them. No I didn't!YERGONADIE |