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C3's. Thoughts?

Simon H · · Oakland, CA · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 200

Before buying micro cams, I had used C3's and TCU's, and much preferred the C3's for their smaller head width, so ended up purchasing 00-2. I like the lateral stiffness that allows them to be slotted in placements like a nut, as well as the trigger action and form factor.

I have whipped about 8-10ft on a Red #1 C3, it held solidly, and aside from a little bit of lobe deformation, it still works fine.

The complaints about the higher price of C3's are no longer valid - Although 2010 MSRP was $69.95, BD has lowered the price to $59.95 for 2011, essentially the same as TCU's and certainly cheaper than Aliens on Ebay.

I too wish BD made a #3 C3, as I much prefer the #2 C3 to the #.3 C4. The double Axle in the smallest sizes doesn't make much sense, and for the awkward flaring cracks of JT where I climb most, 3 lobes often fit better.

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245
Killis Howard wrote:Link Cams: good idea, needs refinement. Like Aliens, and Master Cams, in my opinion. I think the C3s are way too fucking expensive, aren't a good beginner piece, as they get stuck way easily (like the Link Cam-those MFs are turning up stuck everywhere!), and have small surface area-bad news in a lot of placements. On the other hand, they're like Ballnutz in a way-weird and funky, but lifesavers in the right spot. Personally I think many folks spend way too much time worrying about small cams, micro wires, etc. It's great you can get HB brass offsets and RPs again now that DMM is producing them, but does the guy leading 5.6 trad have any need for a full set of C3s, Ballnutz, Aliens, RPs, HB offsets, Peenuts, BD Micro Stoppers, and more, just to get up the first pitch of Cat in the Hat at Red Rock? Get a set of normal ass nuts and start learning to place them. If you've been climbing every weekend and you have 8 cams on your rack that haven't ever been placed, that should tell you something. This tiny shit is specialty gear and should be viewed as such. A standard rack should be able to get you up 80+% of gear routes on this continent. Don't sweat the small stuff.
I agree. I did a lot of climbing with a single rack of TCU's blue to Orange, a single set of C4's .5 to 3, a single set of stoppers and a few tri-cams. And even that was a lot.
Nelson Day · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,315

C3's suck in my opinion. I'd go with a Metolius TCU any day over a BD C3. Hard to place, and feel like they aren't going to hold.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

C3's are $. The TCU's are unfortunately too wide with the double stem and wont fit where you want a 3 lobe cam to fit. I've fallen on the #00 C3, not just for aid!

Mark Roth · · Boulder · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 14,062
Monty wrote:they fit where other cams don't. I use mine a lot. The only issue I have with them is that if you have any trigger wire issues, they are a pain in the ass to fix.
Trigger wire issues are fully covered under warranty. Just send it back... I broke a trigger wire and BD replaced it.
Martin Harris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 200

I learned to trad climb with nuts and 6 cams and now I love my 30 cams and my nuts. I climb a lot of funky rock so for me I place nuts, offset mastercams, c3s and c4s on almost every route. Some routes almost all nuts other routes none at all. Gear is good place it where it fits. And micro gear is light and it fits all over the place. But saying that don't take a big wall rack up a 100 foot 5.10

Chris D · · the couch · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 2,230

Had a set of three C3s that I could never seem to place confidently. Even straightforward placements seemed wobbly and insecure. Maybe just perception, probably inexperience, but whatever. Sold them and picked up a set of the smallest Mastercams to replace them for the size. Have been totally happy with the Mastercams.

I disagree with the comment that people leading easy trad don't need small cams. If you climb in areas with lots of old pin scars, the Mastercams size 2-00 are clutch.

rhyang · · San Jose, CA · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 620

Re: C3 trigger wires - After 4 years one of the trigger wires on my yellow C3 got tweaked badly last weekend. Ordered a trigger wire replacement kit off the BD website, and ten minutes with a pair of pliers & diagonal cutters fixed the cam like new.

The kit contains detailed instructions and 4 trigger wires. It isn't rocket science if you look carefully at how they are put together.

Monty · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,525

where was the wire tweaked? Mine is sticking out the bottom where it attaches on the plastic not allowing the lobe to open completely

rhyang · · San Jose, CA · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 620

Sounds similar to mine. Probably best to send it to BD if you have any doubts about doing the repair yourself.

Mark Thomas · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,635

Funny now that I think about it, but I've only fallen twice while climbing, and both times were on a C3.

First time was on a #0 with only 2/3 lobes engaged (crack was very irregular) after a handhold broke on The Surprise. It held and I was happy :-)

Second time a C3 caused a fall when aiding P1 of Pacific Ocean Wall. I stuck a #000 in a roof and it held just well enough to let me get careless in my stance when I tested it. I couldn't see how well the lobes were retracted since the heads were so small compared to the plastic neck, and although it stood up to some hard jerk tests, it came right out when I stepped in my aider to begin a bounce test!

Jim Reynolds · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 75

I just bought a second #1 Red C3. Love the size and always find good placements for it. I dont think its hard to tell if its good or not and it makes a good addition as the size down from the smallest C4's

I took a 40 ft on it and it didn't move or twist at all. Totally bomber, and its a good thing.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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