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2011 Utah Ice Conditions thread

Thomas G. · · SLC, UT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 195
Ian Hanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 2,685

Does anybody know the mixed rating of the line that goes from the bottom of the second pitch of the GWI to the rappel anchors pn the ledge? Right where you rap down? There is a manky old pin where the ice meets the rock

bsmoot · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 3,183

Climbed in Provo Canyon today...Stairway is still in.

paintrain · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 75

GWI conditions - Hall and Oats.

It's good to the top.

PT

Glen B · · Murray, UT · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 0

CCC and Donorcicle were in good shape friday.

matt tuttle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 40

Sat 12-28 ACT is in good and steep, Candlestick Fat top out is super thin to nonexistant be super careful would not be a good whip! Angel of Fear does not touch:)

Scott Adamson, Candlestick

Matt Tuttle, Angel of Fear/Holy Ghost

Rob Man · · SLC UT · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 40

Clay,
When did you climb these routes and what do you mean the walk off was difficult on Back off?
How much snow in in the canyon now???
Thanks
Rob

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203

Just remember there are some killer bowls above Squashed Head and Backoff that are great shape for ripping out. I have seen Squashed Head horking big time.

Rob Man · · SLC UT · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 40

Thanks Clay for the photo and the decent prospective, much appreciated!

Allen, I know what you mean I've seen a 15ft. debris pile with trees in it at the base of Squash head :(

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700

The stuff out in Strawberry is Huge. We climbed a huge pillar in Timber canyon that is over 100 ft. tall, I think it might be Excalibur- definitely WI5. We hunted down 4 other climbs in that canyon (Timber) and looked at the HUGE climbs behind the home further down the main road, but could not figure out how to access those.
Dallen

RonB · · Berthoud, CO · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 275
Sunny-D wrote:The stuff out in Strawberry is Huge... Dallen
And I'm stuck sitting at my desk in WDC...The cabin just miles away from lovely ice:( Thanks SunnyD; why do you taunt me like this. I really gotta retire...

On another note: what's the hubbub about sportage in Santaquin canyon?
Eric and Lucie · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 140

Does anyone have recent info about ice conditions around Provo? Pics would be even better! Thanks!

akafaultline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 225

Climbed provo today-Bridal veil right is in to the top. Good conditions and dry.

Mtn Ape XL · · Utah · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 131

Provo Canyon...Bolted small mixed line between Bridal Veil Left and Bridal Veil Right...4 bolts...M4-M5 depending on conditions...new chains 5' to the left of Bridal Veil Right chains...route name = B.V.M.

Rob Man · · SLC UT · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 40

Me and my friend Dan top roped that climb last week and we thought it might be worth bolting, congratulating

Thomas G. · · SLC, UT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 195

Hey guys!

So after reading (and laughing at) a bunch of MP posts about lost tools, I finally managed to lose one of my own. I guess it's not lost--I mean, I know the exact WI5 pillar that it's on top of--there's just no way in hell that I'll be able to lead up it.

So, just wanted to see if anyone was interested in going on a trip. I'll pay for gas, all you have to do is get up a super sweet line that almost never gets climbed. It's in the Strawberry Pinnacles.

Alternatively, if you wanted to go up there on your own and get it for me, I'd definitely get you a beer.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks,

Thomas

MoonMountainMan · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 275
Strawberry Pinnacles Excalibur WI5 2/09/12
Drool all you want. This is what Thomas, Dan and I found in Strawberry Pinnacles today 2/09/12. Is this motivation enough to get in touch with Thomas, to go help him get his tool back?
Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436

Went down to Joe's Valley today and climbed CCC Falls and the Donorcicle. Both are in fantastic shape, with just the far thin right curtain of the upper pitch of CCC Falls having dropped off. Saw the Pricecicle on the way down and it is pretty monstrous. Filthy looking but very large.

CCC Falls was fun but the real meat was on the Donorcicle:

Donorcicle on 2/9/12

My climbing partner hiked around to the top and set up a TR. Very doable with the 60M rope. We did laps on the center and left side but it looks climbable all over. The ice is weirdly formed so it would be a real challenge to lead. Fun climbing though.

Nikki Smith · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 75
"Drool all you want. This is what Thomas, Dan and I found in Strawberry Pinnacles today 2/09/12."

The climb in Mooner's photo is Excalibur WI5. Super fun pillar.
MoonMountainMan · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 275

In reality Nathan it is not Excalibur. We did go to Excalibur but were chased off the land by some guy with a camera saying he was going to call the sheriff for trespassing. For the record we didn't have our ice gear with us and went and knocked on the land owners door first then went back to look at it. So the moral of the story is call before attempting Excalibur. The land owner ( or at least his neibors) seems very protective of it
The picture above is something we found and I do not know the name of it and have yet to find any previous info on. it. It a lso is not located on private land.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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