Mountain Project Logo

Best Trad Rope?

Original Post
Douglas Wheeler · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 15

Let's here some opinions

Shelton Hatfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 650

light is right. bi-color is nice if you think you're going to be setting up lots of single rope raps. 70m is good for the same reason and others. you might want to consider double ropes for flexability on wandering routes, longer raps, and protecting the second, but i'm pretty sure the single vs double rope argument already occupies a handful of threads.

Shelton Hatfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 650
caughtinside wrote:It is on sale.
+1
Ian Cavanaugh · · Ketchum, ID · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 620

Beal, the booster III or the Stinger III. they are light with very very low impact force that comes in handy on small sketchy gear. they last a long time and feed great. whatever you do, do not buy a mammut tusk. This rope is stiff, high impact force, and very quick sheath wear.

S Denny · · Aspen, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 20

i got a mammut infinity for free and it's one of the best ropes i've ever used. there are a few ropes that I wouldn't buy (mammut tusk, petzl anything, new england glider). Other than that, just get something and go climbing. You will buy many ropes in your life, and personal preferences will grow in time.

CanDillo · · The Great State -Colorado · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 280

Edelweiss - 9.6 Energy Bi Color - Used it all summer, all types of rock, alpine granite to sandstone, used every weekend in Eldo and it still looks brand new. Best rope I've ever owned.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520
caughtinside wrote:It is on sale.
And BAM. Coffin lid secure.
Chase Roskos · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 90

My 70 m, 9.8mm Sterling Evolution Velocity has been a solid workhorse. It has held up really well, especially considering the extremely coarse SD Needles granite it has seen a lot of days on. I would absolutely recommend it.

BackCountry Sortor · · Ogden, UT · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 400
S Denny wrote: there are a few ropes that I wouldn't buy (mammut tusk,)
Why is that? I have two I like pretty well.
Lurking Queer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 15

If you're clipping this rope to cams and nuts you must make sure you buy one with a UIAA trad certification. Sport ropes will fail.

My friend Mitch found this out the hard way. I still miss him.

Derek W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 20

Edleweiss Laser 9.6. Lower impact force is good when looking at trad ropes, this one is 8kn

Edit: Looks like this is the predecessor of the Energy mentioned above. Basically equivalent ropes, best I can tell.

Derek W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 20
johnL wrote: Mine looked like an 11 after a few months. An ok rope but I sure have liked the Sterling ropes I've had better.
I haven't had that problem and I'm on my second rope. Which Sterling do you recommend, John?
Mark Mueller · · Surprise, AZ · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 185

Sterling Evolution Velocity 9.8 70m

BameR Bame · · golden, co · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 90

Edelweiss Helium 7.9mm, Twin, 70m... Has super everdry treatment and perdur coating, low impact force... I use a green and the tan/yellow... Had them almost a year and still feel new.

greatoutdoorsdepot.com/edel…

70m 165$ (x2) + shipping= about $350. If you are going to do alpine I would recommend twin or double ropes.... Plus they are on sale!

Matt N · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 415
CaseClimber wrote:Let's here some opinions
The one having the most fun?

The one that doesn't get cut over a sharp edge. Final answer.
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

whatever works ...

NickinCO · · colorado · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 155
Mark Mueller wrote:Sterling Evolution Velocity 9.8 70m
+1 and go bi-color
Martin Harris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 200

Sterling 9.2 nano 70
Light clips easy and a super soft catch. Plus after hammering it w/a bunch of whips
An some hangdoggin(lame I know) I had to cut off 8 feet an it is still 240 feet long

Gif Zafred · · Pittsburgh, PA · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5

I'm a big fan of the Sterling Marathon series. I've had the Sport (10.4) and the Pro (10.1).

Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 3,098
martinharris wrote:Sterling 9.2 nano 70 ... I had to cut off 8 feet an it is still 240 feet long
70 what?
Abel Jones · · Bishop, CA · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 606

Just took a brand spanking new sterling 9.2 nano up a standard 5 pitch trad route and got a large core shot 1/3 of the way along the length from hanging my 112 lb follower to clean a piece. Not a single fall and it ran over standard rounded although course granite. That was the second day out of the box. Seems impossible and should be with any diameter rope but the company basically said it is designed to fail under those conditons. They offered me 50% off which makes a new one from them clock in at 170$ after shipping, real hookup although I know they are trying to help me out and may still fix the problem. Bottom line, larger diameter for trad. I have also had great experience with several edelweiss lasers 9.6 that have taken tons of rope stretching abuse and many falls. In fact I have been forced to go back to my old 80 m laser while my sterling nano lies broken in the closet. Nano doesn't belong in the mountains unless as a double.

Edit: Sterling has since graciously sent me a new rope free of charge. Thanks sterling... I will be checking to see if the 9.4 does better on multi pitch. Can't beat that for customer service.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Best Trad Rope?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started