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First ascents of the current century

Original Post
J. Broussard · · CordryCorner · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 50

Been climbing in some old forgotten (more like extremely overlooked) bouldering areas that I know had been completely run though by some (local) big names of the 80s.

Some of the stuff I've found myself working out has required a lot of cleaning. Well more like falling when shit breaks on me. Now that I've had over half the big big holds pop off, the climbing and movement has changed drastically.

The question is this. Since the line required work to establish the beta and clean it, resulting in a completely new climb, how are the efforts of developers past and present recorded/recognized?

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

If you are putting in a description, just mention some holds have changed if they were significant. Unless something is world class cutting edge, the original history is probably more important than repeats to most people. Just enjoy your own and the fact that you helped restore an old route and don't worry about getting public credit. It is part of giving back to the area.

daniel arthur · · Auburn,Al · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 35

I have to admit, I was really bummed when I read your post. I was hoping for a running list of true first ascent of obscure peaks deep in the wilderness. Epic stories, with awe inspiring pictures.

Instead I find myself right in the middle of some pebble puller's quest for self glory with no comment...

J. Broussard · · CordryCorner · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 50

Maybe the title needs some work.
It's hard not to respond to the haters. Recognition isn't important, the history is.

Legit question about respecting the history of several climbs. Like it or not, when I clean the thing up a new page turned. My question explicitly addressed that fact with a little history so you know where I'm coming from.

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

Usually, when I am describing the history of an area, after the initial development I might say something like "after a fallow period in the 1990s a new group of climbers appeared and Joe Blow spent many days cleaning up old problems and finding some classic new ones which breathed new life into the area, now popular with the residents of the local sanitarium". Historical minutia for each problem is probably not needed unless to say "Fred Nicole tried this and got his ass spanked" or something.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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