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What do you carry peak bagging

GonnaBe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 135

WWMTD?
First of all the man SAYS to use screamers but he also DID alot of things including some pretty serious soloing. I don't know what to think about him using screamers now...

BUT I bet he would say we should get off our collective a$$es and put up a route that nearly kills us, or that we should go solo something or he might say we're the mediocre scum that are ruining the sport or he might say none of us are allowed to train at his gym.

Couldn't resist.

Brian Croce · · san diego, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60

the last part about none of us being allowed at his gym is definitely true.

cms829 · · NJ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 90

No offense to anyone talking smack about screamers. You are entitled to your opinion as is everyone. However your logic is a little skewed, That or you don't understand the fundamental use of a screamer in an alpine environment.

Screamers have been proven to greatly reduce the amount of force put on the climber and their protection due to a fall. People have used them for a long time on ice screws and or pickets. Why? Well a lot of the times higher altitude ice is often brittle or awfully aerated. This means its often weaker then waterfall ice at lower elevations.

I don't know about you guys, but if I can enlarge my safety margin by carrying a screamer instead of a quick-draw, hell yea I'll do it. If that makes you think I am somehow not "good" enough or lack the skill to climb my intended route, then so be it. I'm not sure that anyone who is getting out and climbing routes using screamers (WI, Mixed, Alpine, Trees, Grassy hills, etc) really takes our opinions into consideration. Just an observation. I hate how people somehow correlate the use of specific safety gear that you may not use yourself, into the person in question somehow not being as good as a climber as you. In fact, they're probably better. And if somehow simply utilizing a screamer means your going to fall, well then I'm glad I don't use them! ;p

PS...you can bet your bottom dollar that when I head up liberty ridge I'll have 2-3 screamer instead of quickdraws for use up high crossing the berg.

Brian Croce · · san diego, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60

Im not saying anything about being a better climber, or using screamers makes you a bad climber. thats perosnal preference, which imo they are useless. But when I crack my head open feel free to say I told ya so.

Im just saying (and this was stated further up in the thread) that if you need to use screamers on a route to give you mental security, you shouldnt be climbing that route, since you clearly lack the confidence to do so.

cms829 · · NJ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 90

i guess we can agree to disagree. lol. I guess I didnt clearly explain myself. Me personally, I wouldnt use screamers to give me more confidence to climb a M9, but I would use them where a fall would be potentially lethal. I guess thats what I meant.

Brian Croce · · san diego, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60

so you use them on everything you climb since all falls are "potentially" lethal? lol... I get what youre saying.

cms829 · · NJ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 90

nooooo LMAO. I actually dont own any. I used to, but didnt use them much so i sold em. I mean i would probably use them where I potential screw failure would cause a ground fall...or something. maybe. i dunno. it depends. hahaha

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

I usually take a shit load of condoms

for all the pussies on a hill

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145
johnL wrote:I hate the term peak bagging. It's glorifying walking up a mountain in shitty conditions. The English have the proper term, Hill Walking. Peak bagging is an insecure American way of saying the same.
I think it's also called 'fellwalking' -- the first few accident reports read I started off thinking, these people are friggin idiots, but then, well, nevermind, that was pointless; anyway 'fellwalking'
cms829 · · NJ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 90

What does everyone use for weather updates on the bigger mountains? Take Rainier for example. Sometimes I get spotty cell service, most of the time I get nothing. Maybe Some kind of tiny tiny AM/FM receiver?

Martin le Roux · · Superior, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 401
johnL wrote:I hate the term peak bagging. It's glorifying walking up a mountain in shitty conditions. The English have the proper term, Hill Walking. Peak bagging is an insecure American way of saying the same.
I always thought of "peak bagging" as a state of mind, not a style of climbing. Lots of people on the normal routes on Denali or Rainier could be described as peak baggers, but that's certainly not hill walking.
Brian Croce · · san diego, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60

The dissapointment cleaver or west butresss arent hill walking?

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725
cms829 wrote:What does everyone use for weather updates on the bigger mountains? Take Rainier for example. Sometimes I get spotty cell service, most of the time I get nothing. Maybe Some kind of tiny tiny AM/FM receiver?
I look up at the sky.
cms829 · · NJ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 90

LOL...thanks! Im talking for extended trips. 1 week plus. Not worried about it on any of the cascade volcanoes, Im talking more remote peaks without much contact to civilization.

Anyways...the dc is certainly hill walking, with the exception of about 100 feet of it, which can be defined as "extreme hill walking" but not particularly climbing by definition. In which case, mostly all mountaineering with the exception of those with pitches of ice requiring tools, is technically walking uphill...

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

I look at the sky on remote trips as well. You just don't get weather reports when you are in the Andes, Caucasus, etc. Go fast when the weather looks good, batten down the hatches when you start seeing lenticular clouds.

Brian Croce · · san diego, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60
cms829 wrote:LOL...thanks! Im talking for extended trips. 1 week plus. Not worried about it on any of the cascade volcanoes, Im talking more remote peaks without much contact to civilization. Anyways...the dc is certainly hill walking, with the exception of about 100 feet of it, which can be defined as "extreme hill walking" but not particularly climbing by definition. In which case, mostly all mountaineering with the exception of those with pitches of ice requiring tools, is technically walking uphill...
untrue statement. All easy mountaineering is technically walking uphill..thats about it. I can name prob 50 walls/faces off the top of my head that require a lot more than technically walking uphill.
cms829 · · NJ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 90
superkick wrote: untrue statement. All easy mountaineering is technically walking uphill..thats about it. I can name prob 50 walls/faces off the top of my head that require a lot more than technically walking uphill.
huh? explain because to me you just confirmed what I had stated. Anything that requires the use of all four limbs is climbing to me. Anything else, is walking.
Gokul G · · Madison, WI · Joined May 2011 · Points: 1,753
Andrew Gram wrote:Go fast when the weather looks good, batten down the hatches when you start seeing lenticular clouds.
Could you explain that final bit? I've always seen great weather on days that started out with sightings of lenticular clouds. And I've even thought of them as signs of decent weather for the day (barring some wind turbulence in the vicinity of the clouds).
Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

I've found on very high peaks that lenticular clouds are often precursors to getting hit by very strong winds - i've spent some miserable nights trying to keep the tent from blowing away in Argentina, Ecuador, and Russia after observing lenticulars forming around the summit of whatever mountain I happened to be on.

cms829 · · NJ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 90

I dont know. Im no meteorologist but there seem to be a lot of variables when using lenticulars to forecast upcoming weather. Ive taken tons of photos of lenticulars and had clear weather, Ive also witnessed a lenticular whipping around the summint of Rainier like a tornado. Needless to say that night we left at 1 am and was forced to turn around at 13.5. From my observations and experience, a lot of it has to do with the movement of it. If it is not in a circular rotation around the summit, it seems to not have much affect. But if its locked onto the summit, you can be sure its going to create some wicked weather as it collides with the updrafts constantly. Just what Ive witnessed.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Mountaineering
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