best shoes for Indian Creek

Stealth Painted Moccasyms

camhead wrote: Clearly, you were never a B-boy.

Street shoe:

I have a pair that I put freesole on top and that's held up really well. coincidentally they're for sale/for trade if anyone is interested.

"Killis Howard
Dug the Copperheads, too. I dunno what's up with the anti TCU trip, either, I'm guessing that what the Super Mocc resole comments concerned is the fact that you can't get the correct rubber for them (stealth Mystique). I checked out my buddy's pair the other day, they definitely felt noticably different than standard C4 moccs, thought I didn't get to climb in them since he has Sasquatch feet and I'm only human."

Hey!! Watch your mouth about the big footed super moc wearing folk. Oh wait, you were specfically talkin sh** on me. I like that... SSSSSSTRONGG SSSSTRONGG... VASSSSSCULAR!!!

Keeping it vascular!

The Super mocs are sick, a little stiffer than the regular mocs. The Rubber over the toe makes a difference on hands and cup hands sizes (finger sizes for non sasquatch type, damn mutant feet!) for sure.

I don't see an huge difference in the C4 as opposed to the mystique. I'm resoling thses kicks with c4 when the sole goes, def not payin $110 for another pair. So how dare you tell me I can't resole!

JLP wrote:Those stealth painted shoes would go very nicely with some purple toenail polish.

Polish? Pssh! Just buy 'em tight to turn your toenails purple the old fashioned way.

JLP wrote:I've seen all sorts of custom rand rubber work done to various shoes with various theories on how it will help in various crack sizes. The stealth paint is too thin, though, IMO. I think it would last me 1 pitch.

Don't know about the stealth paint, but a thin layer of regular Seam Grip is BURLY. I've got hundreds of pitches on multiple pairs of Mocs that I did a smaller version of what Chris did (I only coat it as high as where the regular rubber over the big toe goes, just far enough back to go past where my toe knuckles are).

As far as not being able to resole supermoccs that's what I have been told, maybe I was misinformed. The supermocc are less stiff than a regular mocc, they feel like your barefoot, the reason is the lack of a midsole (that is why they used the mystique rubber). Since there is no midsole, they can not be resoled. If someone has had them resoled let me know, I have a pair that needs it.

The old Kaukulators were a great combo of low profile and yet high top. You can find them "new" on Ebay with some frequency. The TC pros have a more aggressive toe and might not be as comfy.

Highlander wrote:As far as not being able to resole supermoccs that's what I have been told, maybe I was misinformed. The supermocc are less stiff than a regular mocc, they feel like your barefoot, the reason is the lack of a midsole (that is why they used the mystique rubber). Since there is no midsole, they can not be resoled. If someone has had them resoled let me know, I have a pair that needs it.

I'm sure Locker could resole them (he's in Westminster CO these days, does excellent work). Back when he was in Joshua Tree, a common request was a "stack" where instead of completely grinding off the old sole down to the midsole, he'd grind it partway and resole over the top of the old rubber. You can get many more resoles out of a shoe this way, and when your home area is Joshua Tree which eats rubber, this is a good thing.

Downside would be that the toe profile ends up a tad bit fatter (you can use a thinner rubber like 3mm to offset).

Will S wrote: Don't know about the stealth paint, but a thin layer of regular Seam Grip is BURLY. I've got hundreds of pitches on multiple pairs of Mocs that I did a smaller version of what Chris did (I only coat it as high as where the regular rubber over the big toe goes, just far enough back to go past where my toe knuckles are).

Any other recommendations for what to coat the top of the Moccs in? Stealth Paint is expensive! Is Seam Grip the way to go?

barge cement is the cheapest and also my favored way to do it. you can also use freesole.

here's my quick list of various shoes i have worn and some notes:

mythos - good for fairly thin cracks but replacing broken laces completely blows.
purple mad rock maniac slippers - very similr to moccasyms but cheaper, which is good because the creek is rough on the tops of shoes.
katanas - i think these are the best thin crack shoe because the tip of the toe has a slight hook that gets in there a bit. the pinky profile is probably the thinnest of any shoe i've seen. the velcro buckle is in a ridiculously retarded location though.
copperheads - good for hand cracks and warmup routes, i like how it covers up the laces. toe is WAY too boxy though, so they are worthless on anything tighter than hand cracks.
old green 5.10 altias - great OW shoes. mine are about to die and i haven't found anything i really like to replace them.

these days i usually bring a pair of katanas and a pair of copperheads. if i know i am going to do a significant OW, i bring the altias.

stealth paint - works pretty well, but their directions for mixing ratio of cement to rubber seems way, way off. i use a LOT more cement for a lot better results. the stealth paint isn't nearly as durable as shoe goo though. i spend quite a bit of time during the season, touching up the stealth paint. i like the idea of sewing on a thin piece of rubber - seems like it would be a lot more durable.