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Trip to Adirondacks

Original Post
enkoopa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0

Planning a trip in the spring.. would mid-may be too soon to hit Indian Lake? Thinking of Snowy Mountain in particular, possibly Shanty cliff.

Thanks!

PeterW Whitmore · · Dryden, NY · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 50

The southern ADK's are terrible for black flies in may. Snowy Mountain is the Mt Doom of black flies. I have been there in august and almost been carried away by them. Shanty isn't quite as bad. For may I would recommend going up the Keene Valley area or go to the gunks. Less wet/buggy. As far as snow I wouldn't worry about that. I have climbed at Shanty in early april. The creek crossing is pretty cold though.

Auto-X Fil · · NEPA and Upper Jay, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 50

I like being in the High Peaks in May because the flies aren't out yet, but it's usually warm.

I'd consider heading to Keene Valley as well - it's nice to be close to a wide array of choices early-season, so you can pick crags based on dryness.

enkoopa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0

Thanks guys. I'll check out the guidebook I have for Keene... I'm currently sport-only until I can get some trad experience but I'm guessing that won't happen until June.

M LaViolette Jr · · The Past · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 448

Very few sport options to be found in the 'dacks. There are a few routes at Shanty and some routes at Spanky's area in Chapel Pond Pass.

Auto-X Fil · · NEPA and Upper Jay, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 50

The Daks probably aren't worth the drive, then. Many of the bolted climbs here still require gear, so don't think that some X's on the topo means "sport".

If your ego is ok with a top-roping trip you could learn a hell of a lot about crack climbing by TR'ing at the Beer Walls, Creature Wall, and other roadside crags near Keene Valley. If you have some pro to practice placing on said top ropes, it could end up being a huge jump-start to your trad climbing career.

enkoopa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0

Yeah, I know there would be a lot more options if I could trad. I'm currently using this to help me out :

facebook.com/notes/adironda…

I'm in south Ontario - maybe there are other areas I should consider visiting as well?

I'm still not against the dacks.. we have some local outdoor crags which are 2 hours away and only have a handful of climbs.. it makes for a nice road trip, adventure, mixed with some climbing :) Likewise both Shanty and more-so Snowy sound like half the fun is getting there.

JohnnyG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10

Daks are a great place to learn how to climb trad. That's where I cut my teeth. I remember asking the older climbers at my college "where should we go in the daks for some bolted climbs?" They just laughed.

There are tons of moderate routes for learning how to place gear. Just stay away from the routes with a + rating, e.g. 5.5.+, 5.7+. + is code for sandbag or weird climbing.

and yes the black flies will have their way with you from mothers day to fathers day.

enkoopa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0

Thanks for the responses guys. Sorry for the delay but I apparently have to wait between posts.

Would there be a better area other than the daks suited to sport climbing? We're hoping to go on a long weekend in May 18-21, and my friend is from Toronto, so the daks were a nice location for driving.

Otherwise, TR'ing at Keene might not be horrible, and even placing pro while on TR as suggested by Fil could be good, although I wouldn't have anyone to really check it.

enkoopa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0
apeman e wrote: Clip a sling to any piece and bounce. Does it hold? Does it shift? You'll learn something even without an experienced mentor around. And then of course you'll kill yourself.
:) It's nice to hear someone saying what I've been thinking all along. I find the "Yer gunna die!" attitude overwhelming at times!
davidbr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 190

GReg,

Why not the Red or the New or Rumney? They're all a couple of hours more driving, but if you're looking for sport you would get a lot more climbing in than you will by heading to the 'Dacks.

Tparis · · Pottersville,New York · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 270
apeman e wrote: Clip a sling to any piece and bounce. Does it hold? Does it shift? You'll learn something even without an experienced mentor around. And then of course you'll kill yourself.
That is called aid climbing not trad.
enkoopa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0
davidbr wrote:GReg, Why not the Red or the New or Rumney? They're all a couple of hours more driving, but if you're looking for sport you would get a lot more climbing in than you will by heading to the 'Dacks.
More then a couple... red is 15 hours instead of 2-3 :)

I have plans for the red in April for a whole week :) This is more a weekend trip I'm trying to plan.

Isn't rumney a ton of trad too?
Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,330
GregC wrote: Isn't rumney a ton of trad too?
That'd be a negatory, ghost rider.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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