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Most Memorable Dihedral You've Ever Climbed?

Coz Teplitz · · Watertown, MA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 215

For the northeasterners out there, I have to mention the Book of Solemnity on Cathedral.

ryan albery · · Cochise and Custer · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 290

The middle pitches of the Nightcrawler at Red Rocks, and a route simply called Dihedral at Lake Powell

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061

Moratorium, probably.

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911

bongeater in LCC, most climbed at least

pika paradise in Lone Peak Circque

Brooks Henry · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 685

Queen's Throne at Devil's Lake. Pretty Easy, but so much fun. Too bad it isn't longer...

mountainproject.com/v/queen…

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,241
Ryan Williams wrote:...Thin Ice at the Needles...
Huh, I didn't think of TI as a dihedral. First pitch, you start off in a bit of a dihedral for a second and then it's straight-on. I thought of the second pitch more as a squeezing v-slot.... I guess it depends on how you look at it. Awesome climb, nonetheless.

An unmentioned dihedral I thought was memorable is Don Quixote at El Potrero Chico. Pretty good sport route anyhow.

OZ is memorable for me as well. That was an unrelenting pitch the day I climbed it, not the casual 10- Fossana found it ;).
Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,330

+1 for the Book of Solemnity! Also, Partition on Upper Washbowl in the Adirondacks, Earthly Nights @ Poke-O-Moonshine in the Adirondacks, and Slim Pickins @ The Web in the Adirondacks.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Good thread; I like these topics that make you reminisce a bit.

Most memorable one for me was Triple S at Seneca Rocks; memorable because I first climbed it very early on- I think I was 15, and had just started leading. It is a long, sustained corner with a mostly thin-hands crack, but lots a feet keep it at 5.8+. Awesome. I think it was the second 5.8 I ever led.

Some others that have been particularly noteworthy and good:

Tomato (Seneca Rocks)- Also something I led early one, so memorable for that reason.

Pitch 8 (the Enduro Corner) on Freeride (Wallface, Adks)- My favorite pitch on a hidden classic in the Northeast.

Bonnie's Roof (Gunks) and Ant's Line (Gunks)- Two incredible steep corners with gigantic holds.

The Split Pillar on the Grand Wall (Squamish)- How has no one mentioned this one yet? Way classic, and one of the most aesthetic features I've ever climbed. Squamish holds a good number of other great corner pitches, especially on the Chief.

Layaway Plan (Indian Creek)- A corner that turns into a roof! Many other corner pitches at the Creek deserve recognition too, but this was my favorite among them.

Not My Cross to Bear (Penitente)- There are some great dihedral sport climbs out there too!

Open Book (Tahquitz)- Already mentioned several times. Not only is it historic, it is also just really good.

And many more to come... I haven't been to Devil's Tower yet, and I expect that I can find me some corners there.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Chris Duca wrote:Partition on Upper Washbowl in the Adirondacks.
Oooh, forgot that one- so good!
Alex Whitman · · Chattanooga · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 440

+1 for Nightcrawler. Superb rock.

-1 for getting ropes stuck at the top as a snowstorm rolled in. I spent a few long, cold hours on top of that pillar while my partner learned to prusik 35m of icy ropes.

Greg Barnes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,065

High Times at Calaveras Dome:
supertopo.com/rock-climbing…

Wailing Banshees, the Needles:
mountainproject.com/v/10684…

+1 for Nightcrawler, Red Rocks. Too many to name in the Valley - but my vote for most memorable easy dihedral pitch is the awesome 5.9 hands corner on p3 of the Rostrum.

Steve C · · Missoula, MT · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 70

+1 for the Red Tower pitch on the Timebinder in Montana. Sustained, thoughtful moves in a perfect corner that goes from hands to fingers.

Other favorites are Hospital Corner at the leap, smooth granite with nice hands. And Oh My God Dihedral at Old Rag in Shenandoah National Park, Virginia. This thing is steep and sustained the whole way. Clean granite makes for tricky footing, it will give you a run for your money at 10c.

Oh, and Coarse and Buggy at J-tree, which I think is pure corner climbing.

Michael Dupont · · Woodbury, MN · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 30

The last pitch of recompense on cathedral ledge. I pulled around the overhang to find a peregrine falcon sitting on the horizontal jug I was gunning for.

Eeep.

Mike Anderson · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2004 · Points: 3,265

This thread needs more pictures:

Arcturus, Half Dome:



Lowe Route, Zion:


Not My Cross To Bare, Penitente:

Nick Stayner · · Wymont Kingdom · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,315

This thread needs more photos (funny, Mike A and I apparently had the same thought at almost the exact same time)!!
Sunspot Dihedral on the Hulk, for sure. Take your pitch of any pitch after #2. They all have particularly amazing sections. Featured granite offering up rad smears, often a crimpy, stemmy crux to bypass a fused section of seam. There's even a little runout! So rad. Just thinking about this route (or any on the Hulk) makes my pulse elevate a bit... But don't just take my word for it! Photos:

Miranda following the delicate corner atop pitch 3



Me following p4, which begins with the crimpy, stemmy crux protected by some tiny stoppers! (M. Oakley photo)


Me topping out p4, surrounded by rad featured granite (M. Oakley photo)


Others: El Matador at Devils Tower (!!!), the underrated Handbook in Tuolumne, some of the rad and delicate stemming on the Moratorium in the Valley... so good!

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

probably black uhuru in the creek or gordons direct in little cottonwood.

Christian "crisco" Burrell · · PG, Utah · Joined May 2007 · Points: 1,815

So hard to pick just one!

+1 for Open Book @ Tahquitz. Sure, it's historical, but it's also fantastic climbing!

Unfortunately, another of the best corners I have ever led is now closed on private property:
I only ever knew it as "The Classic Dihedral (5.9)" at the Crest Boulders in San Diego. This IS still closed right?

LucasSpiegel · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined May 2010 · Points: 740

Plenty of primo corners in Eldo. Over the Hill comes to mind, Green Spur is pretty good to.http://mountainproject.com/v/over-the-hill/105756796 mountainproject.com/v/the-g…

flynn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 25

Mr. Clean is at the top of my heap along with the second pitch of Cynical Pinnacle's Center Route. At a more humble level, but still superb, little ol' Star Wars in Eldorado: 20 feet of perfection leading to almost-as-good-but-easier terrain. CP and SW were landmark leads for me. Mr. Clean I followed free, clean and chalkless; still a proud occasion many years later.

Mark Vogel · · Lander, WY · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 35

The Good Book. As a side note, I remember almost puking up purple vomit during that last pitch...

Black Uhuru anyone?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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