Type: Sport, Mixed, 2 pitches
FA: Eric Malmgren
Page Views: 6,407 total · 32/month
Shared By: Daniel Battin on Dec 24, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


19 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

First pitch: climb vertical seam to low angle, blocky corner under the roof. Jug through the roof (figure 4s and 9s not needed but can help) to the crux lip. There is a slung two bolt anchor up and to the right that can't be missed.

Really fun pitch!

Per Jason Nelson: For pitch 2/extension: Climb through a techy roof above the first anchor to more secure climbing. You can get a "rodeo rest" on the diving board by wrapping your legs around it. Shake out, then prepare for a figure four and figure nine as you climb the roof and your feet loose contact with the diving board. I believe you can either traverse left to the Fang or continue upwards if there's ice in condition. Hopefully you're not too pumped to swing your tools into the ice at this point. There's an anchor in the tree at the top of the Fang. Word on the street is the second pitch is M11. Seemed about right to me. This route is good fun. Thanks for bolting it, Eric!

Location Suggest change

This is immediately left of Amphibian.

Protection Suggest change

Draws.

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