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Original Route (aka Gom Jabber)
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 3.5 from 97
votes
Routes in Southeast Face
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Arm and Hammer T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bloody Bolts and Brown Trousers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0 |
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Catholic School Girls Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Children of the Sun T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b A0-1 PG13 |
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Connections T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a A0 R |
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Crown of Thorns T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Dirty Dikes DDC T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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First Mate T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Great Ah Ha, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mainline T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Matrix, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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New Diversions T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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New Perversions T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Original Route (aka Gom Jabber) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Parental Guidance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Perverse Incentive T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Purple Toad Winery T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Route Doctors, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Spearfinger T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Traditions T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Volunteer Wall, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Warriors Way T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Whippin' Boy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Whiteside Girdle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 10 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | FA: Young, Marshall, Lawrence, Whisnant (1968-1971 - sieged) FFA: Bob Rotert, 1977 |
| Page Views: | 25,905 total · 126/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Mekolites on May 22, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) - New online pass system
Details
All routes between and including Southwest Arete to Mainline are closed. fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
As of 2021, there is a new online method for acquiring day and annual passes to Whitesides here: recreation.gov/activitypass…. $3 for a day pass, $15 for an annual pass.
As of 2021, there is a new online method for acquiring day and annual passes to Whitesides here: recreation.gov/activitypass…. $3 for a day pass, $15 for an annual pass.
Description
Original Route, III, 5.11a or 5.10c, A0.
Approach: Follow the main Whitesides loop trail from the parking lot until a small/vague trail splits off to the right through the rhododendron heading downhill. Follow this trail down until it hangs a left. Follow the trail along the base of the cliff until you reach the "Great Gray Slab". At the right edge of the slab, look for the easiest path up to the tree ledge.
Pitch 1: Climb 5.7 slab passing one, maybe two gear placements, (about 1/2 of the way up) to a tree ledge, 5.7 R/X, 150 feet.
Pitch 2: Move belay left to a large flake. Climb short hollow flake over bulge. Run it out to a tree ledge up and left, 5.8 R, 100 feet.
Pitch 3: Move belay to left end of tree ledge. Climb short crack, traverse right to crack/flake, work up crack until you can step left to a ledge with 3 bolts, 5.7, 80 feet.
Pitch 4: The Sandbag Pitch. Climb very worn/polished corner up to a bolt. Easier climbing leads to another bolt at a ledge. 5.10c, 60 feet.
Pitch 5: Traverse left to a flake then up a very exposed face to a gear belay below flake/corner, 5.7 R, 75 feet.
Pitch 6: The Crescent Pitch. From the belay step right and out onto an exposed ledge, then up into an awkward crack. Continue up until you can step left and up to a bolted belay, 5.8+, 80 feet.
Pitch 7: The Crux Pitch/Bolt Ladder. Face climb or A0 through three bolts to easier climbing then to a hole and gear belay, 5.11a, 75 feet.
Pitch 8: The Traverse Pitch: Step down and work right traversing for about 150 feet, trying to get in some gear along the way, 5.4 R, 150 feet.
Pitch 9: Up from the belay and right to a grassy flake and a fixed pin, 5.6 R, 150 feet.
Pitch 10: Climb the flake, then up a lichen covered face to the summit, 5.6 R, 150 feet.
Descent: Follow loop trail (to the left) back to the car and enjoy a cold beer! You earned it!
Optional Finish:
Climb the last 3 pitches of Traditions:
Pitch 8: From the above mentioned "hole" at the end of pitch 7, follow 3 bolts up and left on a lichen-y ramp, belay on a ledge at a set of rap rings, 5.9, 60 feet.
Pitch 9: Walk left from the belay on a nice ledge to a "corner", face climb past a couple of bolts to a tree and belay, 5.10, 70 feet.
Pitch 10: Climb the path of least resistance until you reach to rhododendron then the summit railing, 5.8 R, 100 feet.
Approach: Follow the main Whitesides loop trail from the parking lot until a small/vague trail splits off to the right through the rhododendron heading downhill. Follow this trail down until it hangs a left. Follow the trail along the base of the cliff until you reach the "Great Gray Slab". At the right edge of the slab, look for the easiest path up to the tree ledge.
Pitch 1: Climb 5.7 slab passing one, maybe two gear placements, (about 1/2 of the way up) to a tree ledge, 5.7 R/X, 150 feet.
Pitch 2: Move belay left to a large flake. Climb short hollow flake over bulge. Run it out to a tree ledge up and left, 5.8 R, 100 feet.
Pitch 3: Move belay to left end of tree ledge. Climb short crack, traverse right to crack/flake, work up crack until you can step left to a ledge with 3 bolts, 5.7, 80 feet.
Pitch 4: The Sandbag Pitch. Climb very worn/polished corner up to a bolt. Easier climbing leads to another bolt at a ledge. 5.10c, 60 feet.
Pitch 5: Traverse left to a flake then up a very exposed face to a gear belay below flake/corner, 5.7 R, 75 feet.
Pitch 6: The Crescent Pitch. From the belay step right and out onto an exposed ledge, then up into an awkward crack. Continue up until you can step left and up to a bolted belay, 5.8+, 80 feet.
Pitch 7: The Crux Pitch/Bolt Ladder. Face climb or A0 through three bolts to easier climbing then to a hole and gear belay, 5.11a, 75 feet.
Pitch 8: The Traverse Pitch: Step down and work right traversing for about 150 feet, trying to get in some gear along the way, 5.4 R, 150 feet.
Pitch 9: Up from the belay and right to a grassy flake and a fixed pin, 5.6 R, 150 feet.
Pitch 10: Climb the flake, then up a lichen covered face to the summit, 5.6 R, 150 feet.
Descent: Follow loop trail (to the left) back to the car and enjoy a cold beer! You earned it!
Optional Finish:
Climb the last 3 pitches of Traditions:
Pitch 8: From the above mentioned "hole" at the end of pitch 7, follow 3 bolts up and left on a lichen-y ramp, belay on a ledge at a set of rap rings, 5.9, 60 feet.
Pitch 9: Walk left from the belay on a nice ledge to a "corner", face climb past a couple of bolts to a tree and belay, 5.10, 70 feet.
Pitch 10: Climb the path of least resistance until you reach to rhododendron then the summit railing, 5.8 R, 100 feet.
Protection
Generally a lighter rack than normal - a single set of cams to #3, maybe double up in the fingers, a few nuts, tri-cam or two, runners and a single lead line.
Note: Most of the route ratings for Whitesides can have an R or X rating added to them. And if the climbing is easy (5.7 - 5.8), plan on it being run out.
Note: Most of the route ratings for Whitesides can have an R or X rating added to them. And if the climbing is easy (5.7 - 5.8), plan on it being run out.
Photos
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