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> Reed's Pinnacle
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left)
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.7 from 14 votes
Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Jim Bridwell, Mark Klemens 1970 |
Page Views: | 2,965 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Alexey Zelditch on Nov 30, 2009 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
P1 : Climb to the base of the flared chimney via not well defined corner/spliter. In upper part of this pitch there some hard, tricky 5.9 moves in vegitated crack, but you can protect them well. 70 ft. mostly small medium gear. Belay at the small convinient ledge on the left.
P2 : Start as the fist crack, and then widen to easy chimney (~5.7) for about 25 feet. The crux is short section where chimney narrows to short OW. Transition [turning the lip of small roof] from this OW to fist crack is the crux. You can protect the crux by #6 or #5 friends in ow section and #4 friends is best in the fist crack. After the roof/overhang negotiated - you still have about 50 feet of interesting varied climbing. 5.10b/ ~120 feet . Belay at the tree
P3 : From the tree you can climb 5.9 chimney ( left root) where #6 friend is too small for protection - you need bigger gear like 8-10".
Other option -you can climb third pitch of Center Route, by traversing 15 feet right from the tree to splitter crack 5.10a . This crack started as thin hands and finished 8" OW. Climb any of those variations to the top of Steppin' Out and rappel with one 70m rope ( 4 rappels)
P2 : Start as the fist crack, and then widen to easy chimney (~5.7) for about 25 feet. The crux is short section where chimney narrows to short OW. Transition [turning the lip of small roof] from this OW to fist crack is the crux. You can protect the crux by #6 or #5 friends in ow section and #4 friends is best in the fist crack. After the roof/overhang negotiated - you still have about 50 feet of interesting varied climbing. 5.10b/ ~120 feet . Belay at the tree
P3 : From the tree you can climb 5.9 chimney ( left root) where #6 friend is too small for protection - you need bigger gear like 8-10".
Other option -you can climb third pitch of Center Route, by traversing 15 feet right from the tree to splitter crack 5.10a . This crack started as thin hands and finished 8" OW. Climb any of those variations to the top of Steppin' Out and rappel with one 70m rope ( 4 rappels)
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