Evolv Demorto shoe - Good, bad, comments?

Evolv Demorto shoe - Good, bad, comments?

I have them, they where my first pair of climbing shoes. I still wear them in the gym, but outside I've discovered that they don't sear that well.

Over all they are a decent shoe. They are very comfortable on my wide foot. I went with a the same size as my street shoe.

Shane,

If you're asking about the Demorto I'm guessing you have long second toe like me. I like them (I have the previous model, the green ones, but I understand they are very similar) but I don't use them for hard stuff, they're my all day shoe. Other shoes to consider are the Scarpa Techno and Evolv Prime - while not as symmetric as the Demorto I find them to be higher level, more technical shoes than the Demorto.

Chris

These are the only modern shoes that fit me well; prior to these I wore my old Boreal Vectors. I don't have Morton's toe, but I do have wide feet and anything with a slingshot rand digs into my achilles. I don't have the newest model of Demortos; I have both the olive and gray ones. My only complaint is that on the gray ones the rubber tends to come unglued where it meets the synthetic leather (not a huge deal given that I got a bunch on closeout for $15 and I can repair them myself). I wear them for trad, sport and bouldering, not that I'm on anything above 5.11. You can have the ridges ground off the heel if you don't like them.

Every pair of shoes designed by Evolv is sweet. The major complaint is the rubber. Shoes fit really good. Feel great, but the rubber pops of the rock whenever it feels like it. Versus stealth anyway. I have some Evolv Shaman's and use them on certain routes. It's best to have several types of shoes for various climbs. My choice for slab would be a softer sole like La Sportiva ,Boreal or thin stealth slippers.

Thanks for the beta. These are one of the few shoes that fit my feet as I have funky and long toes(especially the second toe). That said, they were very comfortable. One last question...how's the stretch factor? Should I size 1/2 and 1 full size down or neither?

-Shane

Shane Zentner wrote:Thanks for the beta. These are one of the few shoes that fit my feet as I have funky and long toes(especially the second toe). That said, they were very comfortable. One last question...how's the stretch factor? Should I size 1/2 and 1 full size down or neither? -Shane

I've been climbing in mine for almost a year several times a week and there I've not experienced any stretch.

mine stretched a little bit, but i have a size 10.5 and let someone with a 12 foot wear them very loosely tied for a few days of cragging and they got sloppy for me. i would size a half size down, makes them a little more aggressive for that small edging.

I have three pairs and have had two of them resoled. I've owned several other shoes but they have all been way too uncomfortable for any but the shortest pitches.

I really wish they would make some demorto slippers!

This is a timely thread as I also have some questions about the Demorto!

I have long, thin, size 13.5/14 feet, with a longer 2nd toe (~1cm longer). I currently have 5.10 Coyotes that I've been using for the last year, but my 2nd toe gets killed every time I go climbing. I've decided I need a symmetrical shoe, and was basically convinced that left me with either the Demorto or La Sportiva Mythos. There's not much difference price wise, so my focus is on performance and durability.

Mythos vs Demorto -- which is the better shoe overall? I prefer to climb trad and outdoors, mostly Cannon and Rumney in NH. But during the winter and weekdays I also go to the gym (for training and fun, it's not a big deal for me to do/not do the hardest routes in the gym).

I understand I'll have to size down on the mythos, which leaves me wondering where to find that balance of good fit vs. too tight vs. too loose. Normally I'm a 48, so do I go for 46 Mythos?
What about Demorto? No stretch, so do I just go for the 13.5?

I'm ready to pull the trigger on either, but can only afford 1. Unfortunately, I can't try them on at any local shop because they never stock my size. Perhaps buy both and send back one set??

Any advice?! Thanks!

Linnaeus wrote:T I'm ready to pull the trigger on either, but can only afford 1. Unfortunately, I can't try them on at any local shop because they never stock my size. Perhaps buy both and send back one set?? Any advice?! Thanks!

IMO this is a bit of recipe for disaster unless you can get free return shipping for both ...

personally i would go with what fits best of all the shoes you can try ...

if not ... then just make sure there free return ... especially if neither fits well

the thing about shoe recommendations is that it doesnt matter if sharma himself uses em ... his feet arent yours ... nor is there any guarantee the sizing is anywhere close

as an example a girl i went shoe shopping with takes a 39 in 5.10 bandits, a 37 in 5.10 sirens, and a 36.5 in sportiva nagos which she eventually bought ...

I got a pair of these and both of my big toes have a blister on them. Not to say the shoes are bad, I think I just need some calluses on the spot.

Other than that very comfortable shoe

I went with the Sportivas for now... will try them on when they arrive and decide if I think the Demortos are worth trying as well.

I ended up getting size 46 Mythos for my typically 48 feet. Purple of course. They were quite comfortable out of the box, too small of course, but given those circumstances I was impressed. I have used them twice at the gym where they performed OK, rubber is not as grippy as my 5.10s were, but they have a stiffer sole (for now, not broken in yet) that is good for edging. So far so good, I think they will stretch out to be very good shoes for my feet.