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Extensor tendon injury in finger

Original Post
Tom Mulholland · · #1 Cheese Producing State! · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 50

I am reasonably sure that I've injured the tendon in my ring finger, or at least the sheath. The finger bulges out on the sides at the base, and I can't extend or flex the finger all the way. There is very mild pain if I force it into full extension, and worse pain if I try to close it all the way.

After reviewing a lot of various advice and problems, I think the solution is that I need to splint it and not use it for several weeks (depressing). My concern is this: if the sheath is busted, will it grow back and pull the tendon back towards the bone (i.e. will that bulging go away)? Or should I go see a P.T. about this?

I think there's one positive that will come out of this. It's so depressing right now to not be able to climb, that I'm going to enjoy the HELL out of some climbing once I can again. And I'm sure I'll be much more injury-conscious.

Tom Mulholland · · #1 Cheese Producing State! · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 50
Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295

I'm sure you know the answer to your question. My questions is how do you keep your skin so nice? I understand the snow-white complexion, living in Wisconsin, but the back of my hands are covered in gobies, cuts, abrasions, scars and bloody cuticles. Do you use some type of lotion, climb with Hand Jammies on, or some other method? What's your secret?

Tom Mulholland · · #1 Cheese Producing State! · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 50
Monomaniac wrote:I'm sure you know the answer to your question. My questions is how do you keep your skin so nice? I understand the snow-white complexion, living in Wisconsin, but the back of my hands are covered in gobies, cuts, abrasions, scars and bloody cuticles. Do you use some type of lotion, climb with Hand Jammies on, or some other method? What's your secret?
First off, let me just say that I completely understand your jealousy. I'm sure it's been years since a woman (or your mammal of choice) told you she enjoyed your silky smooth hands on her skin (or fur). But there's no secret, really. Just that the quartzite here in Wisconsin is so smooth that it's difficult to get any of those sweet gobies or bloody cuticles. Also, if I had been using Hand Jammies (god forbid), I probably wouldn't have busted the finger, since crack climbing is much easier on the tendons.
Dylan Colon · · Eugene, OR · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 491

Just saw this. Yikes, sorry to hear about it Tom. I've got a random question though, did the pain come gradually, or was it a very sudden thing? I've had some mild aches and pains in the same area recently, same finger, but it seems to come and go almost imperceptibly. Did you have any warning signs?

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610
Tom Mulholland wrote: First off, let me just say that I completely understand your jealousy. I'm sure it's been years since a woman (or your mammal of choice) told you she enjoyed your silky smooth hands on her skin (or fur). But there's no secret, really. Just that the quartzite here in Wisconsin is so smooth that it's difficult to get any of those sweet gobies or bloody cuticles. Also, if I had been using Hand Jammies (god forbid), I probably wouldn't have busted the finger, since crack climbing is much easier on the tendons.
Haha, good one.

Tom, as I think I told you when I saw ya at the lake, time is all you need. 6+ weeks to climb, 6 months before its strong again.

What helps diagnose these things is the story of how it happened. If it suddenly, and you heard a "snap", yep, you busted a tendon or sheath, thus all you need it time. If this was an over-use injury, i.e. developed over time you will need to do some rehab, massage, strengthening etc. What's the current update on pain?

If I may also comment on how to stay injury free, I think you have to learn recognize injurious moves and holds and simply stay off them and/or learn when to let go. In my experience these types of injuries happen while over-exerting yourself, usually while hanging on for dear life because you don't want to fall while pumped. I really try to climb smooth and avoid thrutching for things. I last blew a finger while thrutching on Gill's Crack. I was pushing myself for Burr's camera which was stupid, I should have warmed up better climbed more smoothly.
Christian DuBois · · Temple, NH · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 70

Curious to hear how you healed? It seems I’ve developed a similar injury, except instead of just 1 finger, it has apparently happened to both my ring and middle fingers on both hands. I may even have some inflammation on both index and pinky fingers. Though it less severe. My fingers look just like the inflamed one you posted, and I can’t seem to find any other stories about other climbers dealing with this. It seems like it happened to me after bouldering one day, though there was no specific moment of injury that I recall. Unfortunately it’s been about 2 months now and hasn’t healed. I finally tried climbing again and it’s only gotten worse. Curious what your healing process was like, any PT that you did to heal it? Thanks.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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