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Interesting way to resling cams...

Original Post
daniel arthur · · Auburn,Al · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 35
Highlander · · Ouray, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 256

Looks like a junk show!

Matt N · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 415

If you can't afford $7/cam every 10 years (nylon), get a new hobby. I'd hate to see that ingenious person's climbing rope and slings conditions.

coldfinger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 55

Looked at the 5.5mm supercords a while back and they lose about half of their strength to the knot. Tend to like to cut themselves. So I don't use them.

Not a big fan of tied slings, had a homemade anchor daisy years ago, gave it to a friend, we got to a belay and I inspected it (she didn't know to do that) and found the last water knot was half untied. She was JUST about to lean back on it and would have gone to the ground.

DIY can be a really bad idea with climbing gear, this seems like one of them.

Besides, seems like that arrangement would become VERY bulky on the harness with a normal load of cams.

What I don't get is for the expense of that cord, you can get them reslung.

Larry at Mountain Tools offers a reasonable reslinging service.

Peter Stokes · · Them Thar Hills · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 150

I haven't studied this subject a whole lot, but I believe V hitches are stronger than girth hitches around the cam- if this is a temporary thing to not miss out on a gear climbing trip, fine, but maybe try to make it as strong as possible. Have to say, though, proper gear (and use) is way cheaper than ER visits...

coldfinger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 55

Love that old Camalot Jr. tho.

Crag Dweller · · New York, NY · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Highlander wrote:Looks like a junk show!
+1

Matt N wrote:If you can't afford $7/cam every 10 years (nylon), get a new hobby. I'd hate to see that ingenious person's climbing rope and slings conditions.
+1
Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669
coldfinger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 55
Darren Mabe wrote: or try this with some spare slings...
Uh, there's a DMM article that makes clear that technique with Dyneema is a No-No.

Noob Death Hitch
coldfinger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 55

I keep running across mank rigs like this, almost always it ends up with somebody making the old "only do this in an emergency" disclaimer, but my 2 cents is there are a whole lot more of these mank rigs out there than there ever will be a true situation to use that ....

Besides, the camalot pictured can be clipped with a biner, so no need at all.

Just seems stoopid and dangerous to put this kind of stuff out there where newer folks will see it and not understand the risks.

Probably also true that there is no "climbing is inherently dangerous" disclaimer you can use that will get one out of liability if someone follows dumb DIY advice and gets hurt or killed.

Matt Borg · · Fruita · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 5

No!

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,506

Send them to BD or Ragged in NH (same price), why waste money on cords when you can get the real deal?

Harry Dorcy · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 0

My apologies for hijacking the thread, but I had a quick question about the DMM video. Isn't it common practice for the follower to clip into the anchor with slings while the team re-racks and gets ready for the next pitch? Based on the video, this would seem on unsafe practice.

For example: the follower is standing on the belay ledge, 3' left of the anchor. He's attached with 2 slings to the master-point.

If I were guessing, I'd say the climber should just make sure the slings are relatively taut, so that a fall would be more of a swing (with minimal shock-loading on the slings) than a direct fall. But I would like to hear from more experienced climbers than myself.

Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669
coldfinger wrote: Uh, there's a DMM article that makes clear that technique with Dyneema is a No-No. Noob Death Hitch
i may be a noob but thanks for the link! however, that was drop tests on the sling itself, not a situation when you are clipped to it with a rope. trust me, i am aware the knot roughly halves the strength of the sling, but one could also argue the doubled over sling theoretically doubles the strength of the system as well.

EDIT: as far as the OP tied off cam, what purpose does the webbing do?
Yarp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0
coldfinger wrote: Uh, there's a DMM article that makes clear that technique with Dyneema is a No-No. Noob Death Hitch
I don't think the article you posted means what you think it means.

Funny that you're flaming the OP for being an idiot when you've just demonstrated that you, yourself do not have a good understanding of the test or the results it produced.

The forces they achieved in their drop tests are impossible to reach if you have a rope in the system. Even in a factor 2 fall, the rope and, to a lesser extent, the body of the falling climber limit the force on the system. Unlike a solid mass dropped directly onto the sling.

The entire test revolved around drops onto a STATIC material. If you didn't notice, they pointed out that they were using steel biners because they knew aluminum krabs would snap before the dyneema failed. The whole point of the video was to demonstrate that using a dyneema sling to connect yourself to the anchor is a very bad idea UNLESS you are careful to keep it weighted and NEVER subject it to dynamic loading. Perhaps I missed something and it's been decided that dyneema is no longer an acceptable material for using as a runner? Maybe I missed that memo and am now going to die.

Of course the possibility exists that you missed This Video at the bottom of the page?

That being said...anyone still climbing on those old camalots, given their known failure modes, deserves a quality sling job like the one in the link.
dannl · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0

I still don't know if this guy's idea is a good idea, but there is text that goes along with that picture which you can read.

The cord is not girth hitched to the cam, it's clove hitched.

The webbing is threaded onto the cord loop to make a collar so the carabiner doesn't flop around, it is not tied to the webbing and could be eliminated.

daniel arthur · · Auburn,Al · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 35

Just to be clear, this is not my idea. Just stumbled upon it earlier today while surfing the web (ehh,uhh,working...). Just was curious what other folks thought about it. I share the same opinion as most of you guys, why waste time with this when you can get it done right for a couple bucks.

However I try and stay away from the whole "knot bashing" that alot of folks fall into. I feel like with a rope in play, the weak link in any system of mine is going to be ME.

Ice4life · · US · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 330

That is scary for the Jr's

On the single stem, I use cord to re-sling but I don't girth hitch, I pass the cord through the stem hole twice then triple fisherman it. But that girth hitch looks scary.

MTN MIA · · Vail · Joined May 2006 · Points: 405

I think from reading some of the above posts it seems pretty clear that many climbers could use a climbing class to learn about a few safety issues. I have noticed quite a few "scary" practices at different crags, including a lot off home-made swag. The way I look at it is this: it is your life and that of your partner that is on the line and overall climbing isn't that expensive of a sport so get the real deal. I mean really, who would jump out of a plane with some homemade parachute made at grandmas quilting class??????

coldfinger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 55
Darren Mabe wrote: i may be a noob but thanks for the link! however, that was drop tests on the sling itself, not a situation when you are clipped to it with a rope. trust me, i am aware the knot roughly halves the strength of the sling, but one could also argue the doubled over sling theoretically doubles the strength of the system as well. EDIT: as far as the OP tied off cam, what purpose does the webbing do?
His link had an overhand knot as the means of securing the threaded through dyneema sling (instead of just clipping the sling twice--and that presents separate problems) which IS exactly the point of the link I posted.
Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669
coldfinger wrote: His link had an overhand knot as the means of securing the threaded through dyneema sling (instead of just clipping the sling twice--and that presents separate problems) which IS exactly the point of the link I posted.
ok
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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