Interesting way to resling cams...
|
|
|
Looks like a junk show! |
|
If you can't afford $7/cam every 10 years (nylon), get a new hobby. I'd hate to see that ingenious person's climbing rope and slings conditions. |
|
Looked at the 5.5mm supercords a while back and they lose about half of their strength to the knot. Tend to like to cut themselves. So I don't use them. |
|
I haven't studied this subject a whole lot, but I believe V hitches are stronger than girth hitches around the cam- if this is a temporary thing to not miss out on a gear climbing trip, fine, but maybe try to make it as strong as possible. Have to say, though, proper gear (and use) is way cheaper than ER visits... |
|
Love that old Camalot Jr. tho. |
|
Highlander wrote:Looks like a junk show!+1 Matt N wrote:If you can't afford $7/cam every 10 years (nylon), get a new hobby. I'd hate to see that ingenious person's climbing rope and slings conditions.+1 |
|
|
|
Darren Mabe wrote: or try this with some spare slings...Uh, there's a DMM article that makes clear that technique with Dyneema is a No-No. Noob Death Hitch |
|
I keep running across mank rigs like this, almost always it ends up with somebody making the old "only do this in an emergency" disclaimer, but my 2 cents is there are a whole lot more of these mank rigs out there than there ever will be a true situation to use that .... |
|
No! |
|
Send them to BD or Ragged in NH (same price), why waste money on cords when you can get the real deal? |
|
My apologies for hijacking the thread, but I had a quick question about the DMM video. Isn't it common practice for the follower to clip into the anchor with slings while the team re-racks and gets ready for the next pitch? Based on the video, this would seem on unsafe practice. |
|
coldfinger wrote: Uh, there's a DMM article that makes clear that technique with Dyneema is a No-No. Noob Death Hitchi may be a noob but thanks for the link! however, that was drop tests on the sling itself, not a situation when you are clipped to it with a rope. trust me, i am aware the knot roughly halves the strength of the sling, but one could also argue the doubled over sling theoretically doubles the strength of the system as well. EDIT: as far as the OP tied off cam, what purpose does the webbing do? |
|
coldfinger wrote: Uh, there's a DMM article that makes clear that technique with Dyneema is a No-No. Noob Death HitchI don't think the article you posted means what you think it means. Funny that you're flaming the OP for being an idiot when you've just demonstrated that you, yourself do not have a good understanding of the test or the results it produced. The forces they achieved in their drop tests are impossible to reach if you have a rope in the system. Even in a factor 2 fall, the rope and, to a lesser extent, the body of the falling climber limit the force on the system. Unlike a solid mass dropped directly onto the sling. The entire test revolved around drops onto a STATIC material. If you didn't notice, they pointed out that they were using steel biners because they knew aluminum krabs would snap before the dyneema failed. The whole point of the video was to demonstrate that using a dyneema sling to connect yourself to the anchor is a very bad idea UNLESS you are careful to keep it weighted and NEVER subject it to dynamic loading. Perhaps I missed something and it's been decided that dyneema is no longer an acceptable material for using as a runner? Maybe I missed that memo and am now going to die. Of course the possibility exists that you missed This Video at the bottom of the page? That being said...anyone still climbing on those old camalots, given their known failure modes, deserves a quality sling job like the one in the link. |
|
I still don't know if this guy's idea is a good idea, but there is text that goes along with that picture which you can read. |
|
Just to be clear, this is not my idea. Just stumbled upon it earlier today while surfing the web (ehh,uhh,working...). Just was curious what other folks thought about it. I share the same opinion as most of you guys, why waste time with this when you can get it done right for a couple bucks. |
|
That is scary for the Jr's |
|
I think from reading some of the above posts it seems pretty clear that many climbers could use a climbing class to learn about a few safety issues. I have noticed quite a few "scary" practices at different crags, including a lot off home-made swag. The way I look at it is this: it is your life and that of your partner that is on the line and overall climbing isn't that expensive of a sport so get the real deal. I mean really, who would jump out of a plane with some homemade parachute made at grandmas quilting class?????? |
|
Darren Mabe wrote: i may be a noob but thanks for the link! however, that was drop tests on the sling itself, not a situation when you are clipped to it with a rope. trust me, i am aware the knot roughly halves the strength of the sling, but one could also argue the doubled over sling theoretically doubles the strength of the system as well. EDIT: as far as the OP tied off cam, what purpose does the webbing do?His link had an overhand knot as the means of securing the threaded through dyneema sling (instead of just clipping the sling twice--and that presents separate problems) which IS exactly the point of the link I posted. |
|
coldfinger wrote: His link had an overhand knot as the means of securing the threaded through dyneema sling (instead of just clipping the sling twice--and that presents separate problems) which IS exactly the point of the link I posted.ok |