Looking for partner Jan 1st through 16th, Lovers Leap and surrounding area

I'll be staying in Pollock Pines, CA for a couple of weeks in the beginning of January. I have a double set of trad gear .3 up to 3 and a rope and I'll climb anything up to mid 11's. Check out my mp profile for details

hi, i live in san francisco, just moved here during the summer. i haven't climbed in CA yet but i've been wanting to get to tahoe to climb for a long time. i haven't been climbing outside for about a year but i was climbing up to the 5.11 area around New England before. I have a rope and the basic trad gear, although i'm a beginner at leading.
Basically, I'd be happy to climb whatever. I'd like to do a little leading, but i'd be totally happy following you most of the time so that we can do a lot of climbing.

im free from after christmas until the 8th of january

Hi Benjamin,

I'm at 847-873-5404, skb223@gmail.com.

I'll get in touch with you when I get into town before New Years. Have you ever done any multipitch? I haven't been leading 5'11" lately because I've been in law school in Chicago for the last couple years letting all muscles besides my brain atrophy. But that doesn't mean I won't try!!! 10s should be fair game though. I'm psyched to climb out there. The weather looks pretty decent. I'll start checking out some routes. I'd love to do a classic multipitch on Lover's Leap like that one Dan Osman speed climbs. Let me know what you think!

Steph

StephBergner wrote:I haven't been leading 5'11" lately because I've been in law school in Chicago for the last couple years letting all muscles besides my brain atrophy....The weather looks pretty decent. I'll start checking out some routes. I'd love to do a classic multipitch on Lover's Leap like that one Dan Osman speed climbs. Let me know what you think! Steph

I lead exactly 6'.

As a word of caution, Lover's Leap is definitely climbable, but is going to be chilly because it is north facing. Sugarloaf is prime right now: lower elevation and you can chase the sun. There are a couple multi-pitch moderate classics there as well as excellent cragging.

Hey Old Custer,

Thanks for the beta. I was at sugarloaf around thanksgiving. Wasn't sure on the ratings because I didn't have a route book. When you get to the top, do you usually head left or right? I was with a new climber so we were just doing some easy sport stuff. Do you recommend any routes?

StephBergner wrote:Hey Old Custer, Thanks for the beta. I was at sugarloaf around thanksgiving. Wasn't sure on the ratings because I didn't have a route book. When you get to the top, do you usually head left or right? I was with a new climber so we were just doing some easy sport stuff. Do you recommend any routes?

Left or Right would depend on which side you topped out from. Descend by heading north if you are scrambling off.

Moderates I recommend (mostly gear) are: Scheister (5.7), Pony Express (5.8), Lurch (5.8, a bit run out), Farley (5.9), The Fang (5.9), Gooney Dunes (5.9), Morticia (5.9), and Dominion (5.10a)

Less moderate climbs are: Fingerlock (10b), Self Abuse (10b), Hyperspace (10b), Happy Face (10b/c), Blue Velvet (10c), Make that Move Now Baby (10d), The Fracture (10d), and Taurus (11a).

These recs are just climbs I have been on, some other interesting looking climbs on my personal to do list are Bolee Gold (10c), TM's Deviation (5.9+), and Telesis (11b).

I would recommend buying or obtaining some sort of a guide and check out the Highway 50 Climbing site for newer, mostly bolted routes at Sugarloaf. You could probably figure things out with all the info online, but there are multiple formations and some of the top outs/descents are a bit convoluted and it would be nice to have a topo. Additionally, topos to the Phantom Spires which will likely be open if conditions stay the way they are now would be available.

I may be up for a weekend getaway from the Bay Area...

Carpool, Ben?

Hello,

I am currently in the Minden, NV are and would love to go climbing in the area this weekend Jan 14-15. I am a 5.10 sport leader and will follow or harder routes. I do not have much experince on trad but I do know how to clean trad. So if you are still looking for a partner this weekend I would be more than happy to fill the spot. PM me if you are interested and I will give you my phone number.

Doug Wagner