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> Mt Lemmon (Sant…
> Mt Lemmon (Cata…
> 2 - Bear Canyon
> Chimney Rock
Stoner's Boner
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.1 from 131
votes
Routes in Chimney Rock
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8th and Main T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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[Redacted] T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Amanecer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ankle's Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Another Roadside Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Boardwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Centerfire T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Centerpiece T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Coherent Excitation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Copperhead 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Crows Nest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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FIUTT 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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George's Buttress T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Georges Peach T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Icharus S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Jungle Gym T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mistaken Identity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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New Year's Eve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Perfect Peter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ratline S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Shriveled Penis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Single Lens Reflex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stonedmasters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Stoner's Boner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Straight Arrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Stripper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tomorrow is Today S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Unstrung Harp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Veranda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Mike McEwen 1976 |
| Page Views: | 6,241 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Ivan Rezucha on Nov 25, 2003 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
The FFA's of Stoner's Boner and Mistaken Identity to the left, were both done thinking each climb was the other climb, and hence (I'm assuming) the names.
Stoner's Boner starts very roughly 50 feet right of George's Buttress at the left side of Chimney Rock. It climbs a parallel crack system in a recess just left of a big block against the base of the cliff. The block is the start of Centerpiece. A short ways up the left crack is a tiny pine tree.
Having never done the route before, it was a little confusing at times as to which crack to climb. This is how I did it:
Up the slab and step right to the right crack. Stem the two cracks. When it steepens, step over to the left crack below a bulge. The right crack might be easier, but the left crack looks like the better line. Getting past this bulge and established in the wider crack above is the first crux. I laybacked left and reach some horizontals.
Above this easier climbing leads a bit right to a good stance. There is a roof above. The left crack continues past the left side of the roof. This next section is the second crux. Step left onto the face with good handholds and pull up to an awkward stance below the roof. The crack above is flared and looks hard. Instead, undercling right around the roof (not hard, but exciting) to a good stance above the roof. Step back left into the crack. At the very top, the crack is flared. I pulled up and left to a ledge. The two-bolt anchor is right of the top of the crack.
Stoner's Boner starts very roughly 50 feet right of George's Buttress at the left side of Chimney Rock. It climbs a parallel crack system in a recess just left of a big block against the base of the cliff. The block is the start of Centerpiece. A short ways up the left crack is a tiny pine tree.
Having never done the route before, it was a little confusing at times as to which crack to climb. This is how I did it:
Up the slab and step right to the right crack. Stem the two cracks. When it steepens, step over to the left crack below a bulge. The right crack might be easier, but the left crack looks like the better line. Getting past this bulge and established in the wider crack above is the first crux. I laybacked left and reach some horizontals.
Above this easier climbing leads a bit right to a good stance. There is a roof above. The left crack continues past the left side of the roof. This next section is the second crux. Step left onto the face with good handholds and pull up to an awkward stance below the roof. The crack above is flared and looks hard. Instead, undercling right around the roof (not hard, but exciting) to a good stance above the roof. Step back left into the crack. At the very top, the crack is flared. I pulled up and left to a ledge. The two-bolt anchor is right of the top of the crack.
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