Mountain Project Logo

Simple Umbilicals Questions

Original Post
Derek W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 20

I have 3 real beginner questions regarding using/making umbilicals for your ice tools.

1) Regarding homemade umbilicals - With your arm stretched over your head, should you have to stretch the elastic at all? If so, doesn't this make it more work over the course of the day? If the elastic shouldn't be stretched here, then what is the point of it?

2) I am not ready to lead at all. Is there as much of an advantage for me to try leashless/tethered climbing on toprope?

3) I have read a decent amount about umbilicals and I know they are not meant for arresting a fall, so if your feet or a pick placement do fail, should you do your best to hold on to your tool? I don't want an axe in my eye like this guy!

Dobson · · Butte, MT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 215

My BD umbilicals do have to stretch when I swing (and I'm not tall). If they were any longer, I'd trip on them constantly when snow slogging. It does take slightly more effort to climb with them, but I find the added security worth it. It's the same reason we put up with ropes and gear while soloing would be easier.

I don't usually use tethers when TRing. They tangle in the rope and don't really add any safety or comfort. It sucks to fall off of your tool and sit there hanging from the leash with little way to escape. A dropped tool is no big deal when you can lower to the ground.

Derek W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 20

Thanks Dobson. So if I were to make my own umbilicals, how long would you say they should be unstretched? From my harness to my ___?

Dobson wrote:A dropped tool is no big deal when you can lower to the ground.
I understand that your belayer should never be directly below a climber to avoid falling ice and gear, but dropping a tool even remotely towards my belayer sounds like more than a "big deal" haha.
Tim Zander · · Breckenridge, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 30

Whether or not it's a big deal to drop shit on your bellayer... I wouldn't use umbillicals on a one pitch toprope... I wouldn't even use them on a lead of a single pitch.

I would use for multi pitch, committed routes.

Mike Washburn · · Orem, Utah · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 30

I built my own. It took about an hour and less than $30. I used some shock cord, 7/16 webbing, and two of those super small metolius caregivers. I made them so they had a few inches more than my longest reach but not much. You don't want to end up hanging from your tether and not be able to reach your tool. I wondered when I made them about stretching against the elastic and if it would tire me faster but it hasn't turned out to be an issue. Just use the 1/8 inch shock cord so that it isn't too strong. The trade off is getting them to bungee up enough that you don't trip on them but still not tire out stretching them with each reach.I've been using mine all season and find they work well and are very convenient. They also work well to clip into the anchor with (too long to hang from though usually) since the carabiners that clip to your tools are full strength. I will put up some pics in an hour or so, so you can see what I mean if you want.

Mike Washburn · · Orem, Utah · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 30
Derek W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 20
Mike Washburn wrote:and two of those super small metolius caregivers.
LOL

Thanks Mike. I think I'll probably end up making these just because I like tying stuff together and all that nerdy crap, but I understand they aren't exactly necessary for where I am in my climbing yet.

Thanks everyone.
paintrain · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 75

I have converted to using them on everything. I find ice climbing to be very systems and methodology oriented. Switching your set up around reduces your overall efficiency because you are having to re-familiarize yourself with your kit.

Train like you fight.

Pt

Mike Washburn · · Orem, Utah · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 30

Yeah... That's carabiner not care giver. Stupid auto correct.
I agree pain train, usually its best to train the way you'll play.

C'est La Vie · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 35

There is also something to be said for choosing not to use any umbilicals or leashes. If you have leash-less tools, consider going without them. There is an added thrill factor, especially when leading, to have completely free tools. There's no real die-hard reason to use umbilicals unless you're in a situation where dropping a tool would be disastrous. Even if the ice is only two to three pitches, climbing without umbilicals is exciting. Sure you'd have to improvise an anchor and lower off it if you've dropped your tools, but I think after a season of top-roping ice with no umbilicals, you'd find yourself more skilled in handling your tools.

Dylan Weldin · · Ramstein, DE · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,715

+1 for no umbilicals.
youtube.com/watch?v=xdHlyjM…

paintrain · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 75
youtube.com/watch?v=6_mr0kR…

He seems to be using them in this video. Just as a general rule of thumb, A pieced together promo video should not be a big mountain technique guide. he was wearing a harness and carrying a rope at times during his "solo" video as well. He took a pretty good winger simul climbing on el cap with honold as well.

m.youtube.com/#/watch?deskt…

You will notice the petzl jocks sporting tethers on something as diminutive as ben nevis.

video.google.com/videoplay?…

House and Anderson used them on nanga parbat.

Just consider the consequences of dropping a tool. I have converted over to tethers after going sans and carrying a third tool. It is mentally comforting and i only find them mildly tangly when following and cleaning.

Pt
C'est La Vie · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 35

Of course if you're trying to set a triple speed record, or if you're soloing anything, dropping a tool would be disastrous and umbilicals would be necessary and proper. But I think we're just commenting on Wehling's second question: "2) I am not ready to lead at all. Is there as much of an advantage for me to try leashless/tethered climbing on toprope?" We're just saying that there is.

Derek W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 20
Dobson wrote:It does take slightly more effort to climb with them,
So I picked up some stuff to put these together and I bought some 3/16 shock cord to use. When playing with the length, I threw a scale on the end of the cord just for curiosity and it takes an additional 4.5lbs of force to extend the tool with the shock cord attached.

Are you guys using thinner/weaker cord or maybe just not extending it as much as I am. When attached to my belay loop, the unstretched cord sits the carabiner at about shoulder height.

Thanks for your input.

Derek
paintrain · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 75

That seems like it might be fairly hefty elastic cord. It doesn't take much just to keep the tethers retracted. Thinner is better I think. On my homemade pair I got the skinniest stretch chord I could find for them.

Or you could develop some bowling ball shoulders from the extra workout.

Pt

David Appelhans · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 410

I recently bought the webbing and elastic cord to make my own, then time was running short so I just used the elastic by itself without bothering with the webbing. It weighs next to nothing and will keep me from dropping a tool. I haven't played with it much. Anyone done this before?

David Joslin · · Eagle River, AK · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 105

I made an umbilical for this coming season just the other day. I used 9/16" tubular webbing and 1/2" woven flat elastic. I got embroidery thread from the local sew shop. I measured out the length of the webbing to reach just to the end of my reach point. I figured if I was stretched out on a mixed route trying to place my pick, I wanted as little resistance as possible. I sewed the 1/2" elastic doubled over in the middle between the girth loop and the end point on each extension, and I only sewed about 2 1/2 feet of elastic into this section. I made sure that there was about 18 inched of extra length in the webbing to take up the elastic and build a "shock absorber" section.

All in all I have about $14.00 in product into it. I finished it off with Petzl "Ange" mini-beaners (I know, overkill, but it looks nice)

My homemade axe leash (umbilical)

iceman777 · · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 60

from day 1 climbing leash less (5+ years now) ive never even come close to dropping a tool
while ice climbing .

When the umbilicals first came out I bought a commercial pair and made some homemade jobs tried them and decided the were nothing more than a piece of crap that gets in the way most if not all of the time .

your new to ice climbing and f-ing around on top-rope skip the umbilicals and learn not to use them at all , thats the beauty of leash less climbing , if your worried about dropping a tool then just buy some regular leashes .

David Joslin · · Eagle River, AK · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 105

@iceman - good for you! The 12+ years I've been climbing I've never broken my neck either! Point is "you have never done it" until it happens that first time, and whether or not I am leading or top roping, dropping a tool on my belayer or on my wife (who is usually there hanging out) isn't worth the risk of injury.

You make your comments as though I have no clue "your new to ice climbing and f-ing around...." Well, my ego and self-confidence is not based on public opinion of people I do not know...so - best of luck to you in your endeavors!

cms829 · · NJ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 90

i dont think any of that was specifically directed at you.

As far as im concerned (i climb leashless both WI4-5,M7, and alpine ice) umbilicals present more of a hazard than theyre worth. Tangle hazards # 1. They also present a major hazard if you fall, leave a tool behind (dont tell me this doesnt happen as it happens to world class climbers), and you shockload your tool thats still in the ice. That thing becomes a rocket, and your head is the target. I wholeheartedly agree, if dropping a tool is a concern, to use normal leashes. Serious alpine climbs, where a dropped tool could be prove to be a potentially fatal mistake, is where umbilical's belong. Typically in the hands of Mr. Steck. Sure dropping a tool on your belayer in a lead or TR situation may be dangerous, but the chances are slim. Go leashless or use proper leashes when toproping or leading WI.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
Post a Reply to "Simple Umbilicals Questions"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.