worst anchors ever....
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springs wrote: Natural anchors can be some of the most unpredictablehttp://www.mountainproject.com/v/tony_b/105839468 |
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springs wrote: Natural anchors can be some of the most unpredictablehttp://www.mountainproject.com/v/tony_b/105839468 Uh... yeah. |
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Tony B wrote: mountainproject.com/v/tony_… Uh... yeah.that looks about as solid as some of the other stuff i have seen in Eldo. that quicklink looks pretty small, maybe two would be better. |
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Sadly I didn't have my camera with but I was at Grand Ledge in Michigan this weekend climbing. I have heard reports of sketchy anchors but I thought it was a lie till I met these guys. As I was cleaning my anchor at the top I noticed these two dudes setting up theirs. Their equipment was: |
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This behavior is appalling, but unfortunately un-unique. I've seen people run a top rope around a tree trunk. |
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Rich Farnham wrote:Hey Joe! It's been a while--hope all's well. Oh well, in that case... Maybe the ARI folks will start using this method. Rather than their typical announcement ("bolts replaced with 1/2-inch SS anchors donated by ARI") we would start to see: "manky old stoppers donated by..."Has anybody looked at the ARI page and seen the work they do? Why dont they reuse the old holes? |
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Matthew Carlson wrote:Sadly I didn't have my camera with but I was at Grand Ledge in Michigan this weekend climbing. I have heard reports of sketchy anchors but I thought it was a lie till I met these guys. As I was cleaning my anchor at the top I noticed these two dudes setting up theirs. Their equipment was: 1 tree rapped with a cinch strap you use for hauling crap 1 rope running directly over the strap Anyways I gave them one of my extra biners so that the rope was at least not running over the strap and ran before someone died.That biner may have saved someones life. Did you happen to ask if either of them had been ice climbing in Vail this last winter? And then went on morning talk shows the next day....... this sounds familiar. |
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Does anyone remember the "death triangle" guy, he made a bunch of horrible climbing instructional videos? That was a bad anchor spreading. |
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Maybe not the "worst" anchor ever, but historically interesting nonetheless. I had to excavate a half inch of dust to get a look at it. King of Pain rap anchor placed on the first ascent of Vision Quest. |
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Not an anchor, but I was climbing with my partner and came accross his shoe as a piece of pro in the crack we were climbing. I took the picture knowing some day it would make it on MP... |
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I have a friend who supposedly rapped off an Indian Creek splitter from two opposing stoppers so he didn't have to leave any gear. When he got down he was able to flip the rope up and retrieve them. SKETCH! |
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Wade Frank wrote:Not an anchor, but I was climbing with my partner and came accross his shoe as a piece of pro in the crack we were climbing. I took the picture knowing some day it would make it on MP...not that bad, but a size 11 would fit better! |
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biscuits wrote:I have a friend who supposedly rapped off an Indian Creek splitter from two opposing stoppers so he didn't have to leave any gear. When he got down he was able to flip the rope up and retrieve them. SKETCH!well come on man. those things cost $8 a piece. you dont want to leave em. hahahaaha. i dont know about your friend. but my life is worth more than a whole set of stoppers. although . props to him for having big balls. (he could probly use those as pro to) |
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How about the anchor on top of sparkling touch at indian creek? I recall a magazine article (I think it was R&I) a few years back that showed a pic of the anchor. Haha that anchor made my buddy, a non-smoker, puff a rolly so fast he got elvis legs on the ground. |
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Rapped off a bush, not one with a large stem but a bunch of small branches. Was that or down climb 5th class to some tat and a slightly larger bush. |
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All the rock is crap/broken/loose. "Uhhh...I have a stance but don't fall." hehe |
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Not my photo but always thought this 5 RURP anchor couldn't have been too great. |
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Wade Frank wrote:Not an anchor, but I was climbing with my partner and came accross his shoe as a piece of pro in the crack we were climbing. I took the picture knowing some day it would make it on MP...Geez! Everybody *knows* you're supposed to place shoes in a toe-down orientation. That's *definitely* going to blow. :^DDD |
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Super-sketch belay / rap station at the Gunks. Clipped it while hanging out for a bit and waiting for my brother to finish taking a piss, but didn't weight it. |