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worst anchors ever....

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665
springs wrote: Natural anchors can be some of the most unpredictable
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/tony_b/105839468
Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665
springs wrote: Natural anchors can be some of the most unpredictable
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/tony_b/105839468
Uh... yeah.
Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669
Tony B wrote: mountainproject.com/v/tony_… Uh... yeah.
that looks about as solid as some of the other stuff i have seen in Eldo. that quicklink looks pretty small, maybe two would be better.
Matthew Carlson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 0

Sadly I didn't have my camera with but I was at Grand Ledge in Michigan this weekend climbing. I have heard reports of sketchy anchors but I thought it was a lie till I met these guys. As I was cleaning my anchor at the top I noticed these two dudes setting up theirs. Their equipment was:

1 tree rapped with a cinch strap you use for hauling crap
1 rope running directly over the strap

Anyways I gave them one of my extra biners so that the rope was at least not running over the strap and ran before someone died.

Forestvonsinkafinger · · Iowa · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,090

This behavior is appalling, but unfortunately un-unique. I've seen people run a top rope around a tree trunk.

Descending often is where more of the adventure lies. What goes in a good "what now" kit?

John mac · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 105
mikewhite · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 55
Rich Farnham wrote:Hey Joe! It's been a while--hope all's well. Oh well, in that case... Maybe the ARI folks will start using this method. Rather than their typical announcement ("bolts replaced with 1/2-inch SS anchors donated by ARI") we would start to see: "manky old stoppers donated by..."
Has anybody looked at the ARI page and seen the work they do?

Why dont they reuse the old holes?
Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266
Matthew Carlson wrote:Sadly I didn't have my camera with but I was at Grand Ledge in Michigan this weekend climbing. I have heard reports of sketchy anchors but I thought it was a lie till I met these guys. As I was cleaning my anchor at the top I noticed these two dudes setting up theirs. Their equipment was: 1 tree rapped with a cinch strap you use for hauling crap 1 rope running directly over the strap Anyways I gave them one of my extra biners so that the rope was at least not running over the strap and ran before someone died.
That biner may have saved someones life.

Did you happen to ask if either of them had been ice climbing in Vail this last winter? And then went on morning talk shows the next day....... this sounds familiar.
Forestvonsinkafinger · · Iowa · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,090

Does anyone remember the "death triangle" guy, he made a bunch of horrible climbing instructional videos? That was a bad anchor spreading.

chosspector · · San Juans, CO · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 1,296

Maybe not the "worst" anchor ever, but historically interesting nonetheless. I had to excavate a half inch of dust to get a look at it. King of Pain rap anchor placed on the first ascent of Vision Quest.

star drive

Wade Frank · · Littleton, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 145

Not an anchor, but I was climbing with my partner and came accross his shoe as a piece of pro in the crack we were climbing. I took the picture knowing some day it would make it on MP...

bad gear

Adam Paashaus · · Greensboro, NC · Joined May 2007 · Points: 791

I have a friend who supposedly rapped off an Indian Creek splitter from two opposing stoppers so he didn't have to leave any gear. When he got down he was able to flip the rope up and retrieve them. SKETCH!

DBarton · · CENTENNIAL, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 105
Wade Frank wrote:Not an anchor, but I was climbing with my partner and came accross his shoe as a piece of pro in the crack we were climbing. I took the picture knowing some day it would make it on MP...
not that bad, but a size 11 would fit better!
habla · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 40
biscuits wrote:I have a friend who supposedly rapped off an Indian Creek splitter from two opposing stoppers so he didn't have to leave any gear. When he got down he was able to flip the rope up and retrieve them. SKETCH!
well come on man. those things cost $8 a piece. you dont want to leave em. hahahaaha. i dont know about your friend. but my life is worth more than a whole set of stoppers. although . props to him for having big balls. (he could probly use those as pro to)
mtoensing · · AZ · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 705

How about the anchor on top of sparkling touch at indian creek? I recall a magazine article (I think it was R&I) a few years back that showed a pic of the anchor. Haha that anchor made my buddy, a non-smoker, puff a rolly so fast he got elvis legs on the ground.

It consists of old cord threaded through some holes in the upper sandstone layer of rock which is sandy and not as reliable as the lower wingate layer.

Brian Snider · · NorCal · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 732

Rapped off a bush, not one with a large stem but a bunch of small branches. Was that or down climb 5th class to some tat and a slightly larger bush.

Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485

All the rock is crap/broken/loose. "Uhhh...I have a stance but don't fall." hehe

Not the strongest belay...

Greg Howland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 140

Not my photo but always thought this 5 RURP anchor couldn't have been too great.

mountainproject.com/v/calif…

Kevin Craig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 325
Wade Frank wrote:Not an anchor, but I was climbing with my partner and came accross his shoe as a piece of pro in the crack we were climbing. I took the picture knowing some day it would make it on MP...
Geez! Everybody *knows* you're supposed to place shoes in a toe-down orientation. That's *definitely* going to blow. :^DDD
Yair Horowitz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 190

Super-sketch belay / rap station at the Gunks. Clipped it while hanging out for a bit and waiting for my brother to finish taking a piss, but didn't weight it.

The fixed gear

This pile of rags was holding the pieces together

This one is likely bomber, but is also straight from a railyard...

I guess I'm supposed to clip that?

And for good measure...

What's a little rust between friends?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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