The Metamorphosis
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.7 from 172 votes
Type: |
Trad
Fixed Hardware
(4) |
FA: | Pat Ament, Gordy Ryan, 1967. FFA: Jim Erickson, Art Higbee, 1973 |
Page Views: | 14,915 total · 53/month |
Shared By: | Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is a total classic. Do either The Yellow Traverse or Diffraction to lead into this climb.
The climb begins in a right-facing dihedral halfway up the south face of the Wind Tower. Place pro, then pull left out of this dihedral onto a face with some left-trending jugs, crank onto these jugs (poorly protected .8) and up to two bolts. From the bolts, begin a rightward, rising traverse on flakes and jugs. The crux comes at a pull past a small, A-shaped flake with little in the way of feet. This move is well-protected with a good stopper. Here's the scary part. After pulling the crux, move up and thirty feet right on good holds to one last move onto a left-trending ramp. This move is solid and insecure 5.9 with your last piece thirty feet below you. You can get a small stopper in at this move, yet it would barely hold your body weight. This route is steep, exposed, spicy, and a hell of a lot of fun.
The climb begins in a right-facing dihedral halfway up the south face of the Wind Tower. Place pro, then pull left out of this dihedral onto a face with some left-trending jugs, crank onto these jugs (poorly protected .8) and up to two bolts. From the bolts, begin a rightward, rising traverse on flakes and jugs. The crux comes at a pull past a small, A-shaped flake with little in the way of feet. This move is well-protected with a good stopper. Here's the scary part. After pulling the crux, move up and thirty feet right on good holds to one last move onto a left-trending ramp. This move is solid and insecure 5.9 with your last piece thirty feet below you. You can get a small stopper in at this move, yet it would barely hold your body weight. This route is steep, exposed, spicy, and a hell of a lot of fun.
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