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Non-Existant Gear / New Gear Ideas or Inventions

Evan Sanders · · Westminster, CO · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 140
Andrew Haag wrote: What about that clay the military is testing out for armor? It's soft and moldable but as soon as any energy is excerted the clay hardens more than steel. The it returns to a moldable state. The harder the clay gets hit the harder the clay becomes...Cool Stuff. Would be great if there was some sort of a clay stopper that would mold into any crack, and harden upon impact, just to resoften after it was unweighted.
There was such a stopper already invented but they took it off the market. I can't remember what it was called.

The advanced ceramics used to make body armor (it's through the testing phase, they actually use it now) probably wouldn't be the best choice for that.
Chris D · · the couch · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 2,230
Josh Olson wrote:cheaper options in the big bro or bd 5 or 6 range.
Aric Datesman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 145
Andrew Haag wrote:Would be great if there was some sort of a clay stopper that would mold into any crack, and harden upon impact, just to resoften after it was unweighted.
CAMP announced a d3o-based nut back in 2008, set for release in the beginning of April of that year. Can't seem to find it on their page, but Archive.org has the text:

"Welcome to the forefront of passive pro innovation. Introducing the C.A.M.P. Putty Nutz, the world’s first moldable set of nuts that fit nearly any crack or fissure, no matter how irregularly shaped.

The secret to the Putty Nutz is an exciting new material called d30 (dee-three-oh), a specially engineered material of moveable molecules that lock together upon impact. See d3o.com. C.A.M.P.'s head gear designer in Italy, Dr. Aprile Pazzo, heard of d3o being used in ski-racing armor to protect athletes falling at high speeds.

Putty Nutz work like bashies, only you can mold them with your hands to the crack. Place Putty Nutz in any fissure, and when they are impact-loaded, the molecules in the d30 lock together to create a completely solid mass that is strong enough to withstand over 10kN forces. Interestingly, because the material touches all sides of the crack, the impact force is spread much more evenly at all points of contact -- meaning the rock is less likely to break upon impact. Their applications to big-wall aid climbing, and dicey free-climbing pro are numerable.

Putty Nutz are CE certified, but awaiting UIAA approval. They will be ready for the market by December 2008. "
Tristan Higbee · · Pocatello, ID · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,970
Austin Baird wrote:I was starting up a second pitch today when my partner moved his feet and dropped the rope that was draped over them. It was an uncomfortable couple of minutes while I hung from the bolt and he recoiled the rope. What about something that folds up real small (like a windshield cover) that you can unfold at belays and stash the rope in? I thought about using a laundry hamper that folds up but would prefer something horizontally situated.
I use and love these.
Tristan Higbee · · Pocatello, ID · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,970
Aric Datesman wrote: CAMP announced a d3o-based nut back in 2008, set for release in the beginning of April of that year. Can't seem to find it on their page, but Archive.org has the text: "Welcome to the forefront of passive pro innovation. Introducing the C.A.M.P. Putty Nutz, the world’s first moldable set of nuts that fit nearly any crack or fissure, no matter how irregularly shaped. The secret to the Putty Nutz is an exciting new material called d30 (dee-three-oh), a specially engineered material of moveable molecules that lock together upon impact. See d3o.com. C.A.M.P.'s head gear designer in Italy, Dr. Aprile Pazzo, heard of d3o being used in ski-racing armor to protect athletes falling at high speeds. Putty Nutz work like bashies, only you can mold them with your hands to the crack. Place Putty Nutz in any fissure, and when they are impact-loaded, the molecules in the d30 lock together to create a completely solid mass that is strong enough to withstand over 10kN forces. Interestingly, because the material touches all sides of the crack, the impact force is spread much more evenly at all points of contact -- meaning the rock is less likely to break upon impact. Their applications to big-wall aid climbing, and dicey free-climbing pro are numerable. Putty Nutz are CE certified, but awaiting UIAA approval. They will be ready for the market by December 2008. "
That was an April Fool's joke.
Alex Whitman · · Chattanooga · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 440
Andrew Haag wrote: Or how about a device that fits in your pocket and turns choss rock into ice cold beer.
Only if it works in reverse as well.
"Choss on the way in. Bomber tufa on the way out"
Dobson · · Butte, MT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 215
Nathan Stokes wrote:How about a climbing knife that actually stays shut without a mechanical lock, opens easily with one hand, is light, is usable for more than cutting fishing line and will clip in with even the fattest carabiners on the market.
Plenty of those exist, they just don't call them "climbing" knives. I personally keep a Boker rescom clipped to my nut tool. It's cheap, light, tears through old tat, and I can't "accidentally" stab my partner at a crowded belay.

A type of gear that could use improvement is everything used in hard aid climbing. If you could find ways to make all of those body-weight only pieces bomber, there would be a lot of happy climbers.
Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880

Atomic bolts that temporarily fuse w/ rock like magnets

Dan M · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 165

This is a great thread. I like the mix of idiotic and helpful posts :)

Here's some ideas:

Belay glasses that clip onto your sunglasses. That way you don't burn your g-damn eyes out when the leader is in the sun. I'm sure you could make these out of the same type of plastic that cheap sunglasses are made of and undercut the greedy bastards at Power'n Play as well.

Now for the idiotic: An anit-gravity belt for your gf for when she's thrutching her way up 5.9 on TR. Oh yeah, +1 for angry birds on the belay device.

Aric Datesman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 145
Tristan Higbee wrote: That was an April Fool's joke.
And my favorite of the bunch from that year. Really wish they hadn't taken the page down, as it's always fun to catch new people with it. :-)
Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880

Since scientists are becoming increasingly aware of multiple realities sharing the same space, how about a quantum-shifting device. You can shift out of a crater right before impact, also climb on every closed crag around as you'd never get caught.

Nathan Stokes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 440
D@n wrote:This is a great thread. I like the mix of idiotic and helpful posts :) Here's some ideas: Belay glasses that clip onto your sunglasses. That way you don't burn your g-damn eyes out when the leader is in the sun. I'm sure you could make these out of the same type of plastic that cheap sunglasses are made of and undercut the greedy bastards at Power'n Play as well. Now for the idiotic: An anit-gravity belt for your gf for when she's thrutching her way up 5.9 on TR. Oh yeah, +1 for angry birds on the belay device.
For cutting torch work they make a pair of dark over glasses (think blue blockers style) that might do the trick of staring into the sun for too long.
Simon Thompson · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 890

I think a worthy goal would be to try to improve the ice climbing protection available. What we have is pretty great but I still think there is room for advances in ease of use, ability to place pro in really thin ice, etc.

Scott M. McNamara · · Presidio San Augustine Del… · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 55

It might be useful to talk to John Middendorf. He has designed some great products over the years.

johnmiddendorf.com/

Good Luck

Scott Mc

Rob P · · Duluth, MN · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 458

I'd like to see an assisted locking device that lead belays as well as a grigri(2) or a cinch that can also double strand rappel without having to tie off one side and worry about the knot/biner getting stuck while pulling the rope down.

Peter Franzen · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,730

A device that has the belaying capabilities of a Grigri 2 that can also function as an auto-locking double-rope rappel device would be stupendous.

I'm sure the top designers at Petzl et al have put plenty of time into coming up with such a device, but you'd sell them by the truckload if you came up with one first.

DannyUncanny · · Vancouver · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 100

A single cam that covers fingertips to large hands

John Farrell · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 85

I once saw someone with what they called a Blitzkrieg, which looked awesome. They aren't made anymore, it protected off widths and was super compact. It kind of looked like the a car jack, and collapsed pretty much perfectly flat. Same principle as a cam, changed downward force to outward force.

I have tried to find info on them on-line, but it looks like blitzkrieg has a different climbing meaning now, it isn't the right name, or you get the obvious hits, but nothing about the piece of protection.

Forestvonsinkafinger · · Iowa · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,090
DanielS wrote:Trad pro for rock formations that are currently 'unprotectable' (pinches, super tiny cracks...)


As for the Rope coiling:

Aric Datesman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 145
John Farrell wrote:I once saw someone with what they called a Blitzkrieg, which looked awesome.
Was the Cassin Blitz and the the pic John posted is of the new version from Kong, which is called the Gipsy. I've seen reference to ABC also making a version at one time, but don't know what it was called or if it actually existed.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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