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Wild Hickory Nuts
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.8 from 17
votes
Routes in Cereal Wall
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Angell Falls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Civil Disobedience T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Conscientious Objector T C2- |
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Fair-Weather Friend S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fishers Of Men T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Instant Surreal T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Kenosis T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mettle Detector T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Nut n’ Homo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Redneck Cartel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Ride the Wave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Slap, Mantel, and Flop T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snap, Crackle, and Pop T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Sugar Pop Rocks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Trophy Wife T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Walking On Water T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Water Into Whine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Wild Hickory Nuts T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m) |
| FA: | Thomas Kelley, John Tainio, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 5,225 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Brie Abram on Feb 28, 2009 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
Sustained and classic climbing. Begin off the mossy ledge at the base of the Nut n' Homo crack. Angle up and right toward a bolt, placing a couple pieces of pro before you get to it. Follow the shallow crack system that climbs more like a face to the next bolt. Fire to the top of the next crack section (possibly a strenuous nut or tricam placement along the way) and place some thin pro at the top of it before heading for the last bolt and easier climbing. Build a belay for another pitch or continue up some somewhat dirty 5.9 pinches to finish at a notch to a double bolt anchor. Watch for rope drag if you choose this recommended option.
A double rope rappel gets you back to the double bolts you pass before the mossy ledge. Don't get your ropes stuck on the second rappel!
A double rope rappel gets you back to the double bolts you pass before the mossy ledge. Don't get your ropes stuck on the second rappel!
Location
There are 3 normal ways to get to the mossy ledge:
Option 1: climb Instant Surreal (5.10+ R). This presents the best climbing of the 3 options, though it is the scariest.
Option 2: climb the crack/corner feature that is the start of Snap, Crackle and Pop (5.8). This is the natural line that leads directly into the roof traverse 2nd pitch and is well protected.
Option 3: climb the normal start to Nut n' Homo (5.8 R). This option seems to be a bit contrived (especially to be so dangerous) as it is at times only 10 feet or so from the natural line of Snap, Crackle and Pop.
All options take you to the same arching traverse beneath the overhang. Follow the cracks left until you can step up through a notch and continue left to the ledge. Pass up some old tat that marks the start of Moosehead and Battle Creek Bulge. Also continue past the double bolt anchors and scramble to the top of the good ledge.
Option 1: climb Instant Surreal (5.10+ R). This presents the best climbing of the 3 options, though it is the scariest.
Option 2: climb the crack/corner feature that is the start of Snap, Crackle and Pop (5.8). This is the natural line that leads directly into the roof traverse 2nd pitch and is well protected.
Option 3: climb the normal start to Nut n' Homo (5.8 R). This option seems to be a bit contrived (especially to be so dangerous) as it is at times only 10 feet or so from the natural line of Snap, Crackle and Pop.
All options take you to the same arching traverse beneath the overhang. Follow the cracks left until you can step up through a notch and continue left to the ledge. Pass up some old tat that marks the start of Moosehead and Battle Creek Bulge. Also continue past the double bolt anchors and scramble to the top of the good ledge.
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