Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.9 from 87 votes
Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Steve Hendrick and Jay Philbrick, 5/80 |
Page Views: | 10,947 total · 55/month |
Shared By: | Chris Duca on Nov 3, 2007 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
Fear and Loathing is yet another classic test piece of the Web.
The finger journey this route presents to the climber is as much a test of finger strength as it is a trial of trust. You begin immediately to the let of Mr. Rogers' on an unlikely broken wall that is protected by a couple small pieces. Boulder the first 8 feet of the route to gain a rest out right: Milk this!
Step back left and onto the face. Step up and into the otherworldly finger crack. Crank up this for about 20 to 25 feet of sustained, and cruxy, climbing trying not to think about how damn secure these jams REALLY are (there are some great, but small, feet peppered intermittently along the left wall). Slap your hands onto a large jug and rest again before finishing up the steep upper headwall on juggy 5.10 climbing.
The route ends on a spacious ledge at a shared bolt anchor with Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood.
The finger journey this route presents to the climber is as much a test of finger strength as it is a trial of trust. You begin immediately to the let of Mr. Rogers' on an unlikely broken wall that is protected by a couple small pieces. Boulder the first 8 feet of the route to gain a rest out right: Milk this!
Step back left and onto the face. Step up and into the otherworldly finger crack. Crank up this for about 20 to 25 feet of sustained, and cruxy, climbing trying not to think about how damn secure these jams REALLY are (there are some great, but small, feet peppered intermittently along the left wall). Slap your hands onto a large jug and rest again before finishing up the steep upper headwall on juggy 5.10 climbing.
The route ends on a spacious ledge at a shared bolt anchor with Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood.
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